How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2019 Honda Insight (In-Tank Pump)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety precautions, priming, and leak checks
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2019 Honda Insight (In-Tank Pump)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety precautions, priming, and leak checks


🔧 Insight - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Insight, the fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank module (pump + strainer/filter + level sender). Replacing it means working around fuel vapors and opening the tank access from inside the car, so cleanliness and safety are critical.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no flames, no hot work lights; keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to prevent spray.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before opening the fuel system.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the tank; even small debris can damage the new pump.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Trim clip removal tool
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Small flat pick
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set
- Honda fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty)
- Brass punch
- Small hammer
- Shop towels
- Catch pan
- Torque wrench (5–60 N·m range)
- Non-contact work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump strainer (if not included with module) - Qty: 1
- New fuel line O-rings/clips (if required by the connector style) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Insight on level ground and open the driver window (so you can get back in if the battery is disconnected).
- Lower the fuel level if possible (under 1/2 tank is easier; less spill risk).
- Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
- Plan to relieve fuel pressure before opening any line (steps below).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Re-connect the battery temporarily if needed (use 10mm socket) so you can run the engine for this step.
- Locate the fuel pump power source (fuse/relay) per the under-hood fuse box diagram, then remove it using a trim clip removal tool (or your fingers if accessible).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank for 3–5 seconds one more time to bleed off remaining pressure.
- Turn ignition OFF, then disconnect the 12V battery negative again using a 10mm socket.
- Tip: Put the fuse/relay in a labeled bag.
Step 2: Access the fuel pump service cover
- Remove the rear seat bottom cushion (method varies slightly by build): use a trim clip removal tool to pop the front retainers, then lift the cushion out.
- Locate the round/oval service cover above the tank and remove the fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket (depending on fastener type).
- Lift the cover and set it aside with the fasteners.
Step 3: Clean the area thoroughly
- Use shop towels to wipe all dust around the pump module flange.
- Do not allow debris to fall into the tank opening once the module is removed.
Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector
- Press the tab and unplug the pump/module connector by hand.
- If it’s stuck, use a small flat pick gently on the lock tab (don’t break it).
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel line(s)
- Place a catch pan and shop towels under the connection.
- Release the quick-connect fitting using the correct fuel line quick-disconnect tool set.
- Expect a small amount of fuel to drip; catch and wipe immediately.
Step 6: Remove the lock ring
- The lock ring holds the module into the tank. A Honda fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) is the correct tool to turn it without damage.
- Install the lock ring wrench and loosen the ring.
- If you must use an alternate method, use a brass punch and small hammer carefully on the ring tabs (brass reduces spark risk). Strike lightly and evenly.
Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module
- Lift the module straight up slowly, angling as needed to clear the float arm.
- Let fuel drain from the module into the tank opening area briefly, then move it to a catch pan.
- Remove the old tank seal O-ring from the tank opening using a small flat pick.
Step 8: Install the new seal and module
- Install the new tank seal O-ring into the tank groove (clean and fully seated).
- Lower the new module into place, aligning the marks/tabs on the module with the tank opening.
- Reinstall the lock ring and tighten using the Honda fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) until it aligns to the factory stop/marks.
- Torque to Honda specification (service manual) for the lock ring if your procedure provides a numeric spec.
Step 9: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical
- Reconnect the fuel line until you hear/feel it click. Tug gently to confirm it’s locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 10: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the service cover fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket.
- Torque to Honda specification (service manual) if your fasteners have a listed spec.
- Reinstall the rear seat bottom cushion and press it down to latch.
Step 11: Prime the system and check for leaks
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
- Reconnect the 12V battery negative using a 10mm socket.
- Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 2–3 times to prime.
- Check the fuel line connection and module top for any wetness or fuel smell.
- Start the engine and re-check for leaks for 1–2 minutes.
✅ After Repair
- If the engine cranks long, cycle key ON/OFF a few more times to prime.
- Confirm no fuel smell inside the cabin after a short drive.
- If you have a check engine light after the repair, you may need a scan to confirm no EVAP/fuel pressure codes are stored.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
















