How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Toyota Tundra (In-Tank Pump)
Step-by-step tank drop instructions, required tools/parts, safety tips, and priming & leak-check steps
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Toyota Tundra (In-Tank Pump)
Step-by-step tank drop instructions, required tools/parts, safety tips, and priming & leak-check steps


đź”§ Tundra - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Tundra, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it usually requires safely lowering the fuel tank, swapping the module (and seal), then reinstalling everything and leak-checking.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧯 Fuel vapors ignite easily—no smoking, sparks, or hot work lights.
- 🛑 Work on a cool truck; keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- 🧤 Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; fuel can splash.
- 🔌 Disconnect the negative battery cable before disconnecting fuel lines.
- â›˝ Reduce fuel level first (near empty is best); a full tank is very heavy.
- 🚧 Support the tank with a jack before loosening straps; don’t let it drop.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Fuel-resistant gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Extensions (3/8")
- Torque wrench (3/8", 10–150 Nm range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pliers
- Hose clamp pliers
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Drain pan
- Approved fuel transfer container
- Shop towels
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- New hose clamps - Qty: 2-6
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- â›˝ Drive until the tank is close to empty (much easier and safer).
- đź”§ Plan to replace the whole module (recommended) rather than just the pump motor.
- 🧠A “quick-disconnect” is the factory fuel line fitting that releases with a clip—don’t pry aggressively.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Open the hood and remove the fuse/relay box cover.
- Use your owner’s manual label to locate the fuel pump control relay/fuse (often labeled EFI or C/OPN depending on configuration).
- Use pliers to pull the correct relay/fuse.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 2–3 seconds to bleed off any remaining pressure.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
Step 3: Raise and support the truck
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame and lower onto stands.
Step 4: Support the fuel tank
- Position a transmission jack (specialty) (or a floor jack with a wide, stable pad) under the fuel tank.
- Use a paint marker to mark hose routing and connector locations before disconnecting anything.
Step 5: Disconnect filler neck and vent hoses
- Use a flathead screwdriver or hose clamp pliers to loosen clamps (depending on clamp style).
- Carefully twist hoses to break them free, then pull off.
- Tip: Twist first, pull second.
Step 6: Disconnect electrical connectors and fuel lines
- Unplug the tank/pump electrical connectors using your hands (do not pull on wires).
- Place a drain pan and shop towels underneath the fuel line connection.
- Use a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty) to release the fuel line fitting, then pull the line straight off.
- Tip: Expect a small fuel spill.
Step 7: Remove tank straps and lower the tank
- Use a socket set (12mm, 14mm) with a ratchet and extensions to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
- Slowly lower the tank with the transmission jack (specialty), stopping to check for any remaining hoses/wires.
- Once clear, lower enough to access the top of the fuel pump module.
- Torque to Toyota specification (use OEM service info for exact value).
Step 8: Clean the area around the fuel pump module
- Use shop towels to wipe dirt away from the top of the tank and around the module ring.
- Do not let dirt fall into the tank opening.
Step 9: Remove the fuel pump module
- Disconnect any remaining module hoses/connectors using pliers as needed.
- Remove the module retaining ring/fasteners using the appropriate socket set (varies by module style).
- Lift the module straight up carefully; angle as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender).
- Remove the old tank seal O-ring.
Step 10: Install the new module and seal
- Install the new fuel pump module tank seal O-ring onto the tank opening (make sure it is fully seated and not twisted).
- Lower the new module in carefully, keeping the float arm from binding.
- Install and tighten the retaining ring/fasteners evenly using the correct socket and a torque wrench.
- Torque to Toyota specification (use OEM service info for exact value).
Step 11: Reinstall the tank
- Raise the tank into position using the transmission jack (specialty).
- Reconnect the electrical connectors and fuel line until they fully “click” in place.
- Reconnect filler and vent hoses and install new hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver or hose clamp pliers.
- Install the tank straps and bolts using the socket set (12mm, 14mm) and ratchet.
- Torque to Toyota specification (use OEM service info for exact value).
Step 12: Restore power and prime the fuel system
- Reinstall the fuel pump relay/fuse by hand.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Turn the key to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3–4 times to build fuel pressure.
âś… After Repair
- 🔍 Start the engine and inspect for leaks at the fuel line connection and around the tank area.
- đź§Ş If you smell fuel, shut it off immediately and recheck quick-connect seating and hose clamps.
- 🚗 Road test for 10–15 minutes, then recheck for leaks again.
- 🛠️ If a check engine light appears, a scan tool can read codes, but leaks are the first thing to verify.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $250-$1,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















