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2018 Toyota C-HR
2018 Toyota C-HR
XLE Premium - Inline 4 2.0L
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toyota CHR remove the fuel pump tody 24:5:2025

toyota CHR remove the fuel pump tody 24:5:2025

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
10mm
10mm
Wrench
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
Phillips
Phillips
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Toyota C-HR (In-Tank Pump)

Step-by-step in-cabin access guide with safety tips, required tools/parts, and reinstallation checks

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Toyota C-HR (In-Tank Pump)

Step-by-step in-cabin access guide with safety tips, required tools/parts, and reinstallation checks

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Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ C-HR - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your C-HR, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank module accessed from inside the cabin (under the rear seat). The job is mostly about working cleanly, relieving fuel pressure safely, and resealing the tank opening so you don’t get fuel smells or leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—fuel vapors ignite easily.
  • āš ļø No smoking, no shop heaters, and no sparks (including drop lights with hot bulbs).
  • āš ļø Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
  • āš ļø Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
  • āš ļø Clean around the pump opening before removal—dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 10mm wrench
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3" extension (1/4")
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Trim removal tool set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Small pick tool
  • Brass drift punch (specialty)
  • Small hammer
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Torque wrench (foot-pound)
  • Fuel-safe drain pan
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump locking ring - Qty: 1 (recommended)
  • Shop-grade absorbent pads - Qty: 1

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the fuel door to relieve tank vapor pressure.
  • Have the tank at or below 1/4 full if possible—this reduces spill risk.
  • Answer these two quick questions so I can give the exact fastener/lock-ring method and tightening specs for your C-HR:
    • Are you replacing the entire fuel pump module, or only the pump motor inside?
    • When you lift the rear seat cushion, do you see the access cover held by Phillips screws or by small nuts?
  • If you’re not sure, you can proceed through Step 3 and tell me what you see.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover.
  • Use a small pick tool and needle-nose pliers to remove the EFI/fuel pump-related fuse or relay (label varies).
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Crank for 2–3 seconds once more.
  • Turn ignition OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

  • Move the front seats forward for working space.
  • Use a trim removal tool set to release the rear seat bottom cushion clips and lift the cushion out of the way. Pull up sharply near the front edge.
  • Locate the round/oval service cover over the fuel pump area.
  • Remove the cover fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or a 10mm socket (depending on what your C-HR has).

Step 4: Clean the area (very important)

  • Use shop towels to wipe all dust and grit away from the top of the pump module and surrounding metal.
  • Place absorbent pads around the opening to catch any fuel drips.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

  • Unplug the pump electrical connector by releasing the tab with a small pick tool if needed.
  • For the fuel quick-connect line(s), use a small pick tool to lift the safety clip (if equipped), then squeeze the connector tabs and pull straight off.
  • Catch any residual fuel in a fuel-safe drain pan and wipe with shop towels.
  • If it won’t release, don’t pry hard. Tell me what the connector looks like and I’ll guide you.

Step 6: Remove the locking ring / retaining hardware

  • If your C-HR uses a locking ring, use a brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the ring loose by striking the ring’s ribs in the loosening direction. (A brass punch reduces spark risk.)
  • If your C-HR uses small retaining nuts, use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to remove them evenly.
  • Stop here and reply with what you have (ring vs nuts) so I can give the correct tightening sequence/spec for reassembly on your C-HR.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Lift the module straight up slowly, angling as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender).
  • Let fuel drain from the module into the tank, then set the module into the fuel-safe drain pan.
  • Remove the old tank seal O-ring from the tank opening using a small pick tool.

Step 8: Install the new seal and pump/module

  • Install the new fuel pump tank seal O-ring into the tank groove, making sure it sits flat and isn’t twisted.
  • Lower the new module into the tank carefully, again watching the float arm.
  • Reinstall the locking ring or retaining nuts.
  • Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) or torque wrench (foot-pound) for final tightening once you confirm your hardware style.

Step 9: Reconnect lines, wiring, and close up

  • Reconnect the fuel line(s) until you feel/hear a solid click. Reinstall any safety clip using needle-nose pliers.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector.
  • Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the rear seat cushion by aligning the clips and pressing down firmly.

āœ… After Repair

  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench.
  • Reinstall the EFI/fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers.
  • Prime the system: key ON for 5 seconds, OFF for 5 seconds—repeat 3 times (do not crank during priming).
  • Start the engine and check carefully for leaks at the pump top and fuel line connection.
  • If you smell raw fuel inside after driving, stop and recheck the seal seating and ring/nut tightness.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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