🔧 Soul - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Soul, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module under the rear seat. The job is mostly careful disassembly, keeping dirt out of the tank, and resealing the module so it doesn’t leak or set EVAP/fuel pressure issues.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—fuel vapors are extremely flammable.
• ⚠️ No smoking, no sparks, no shop lights with hot bulbs, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to prevent fuel spray.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce spark risk.
• ⚠️ Clean the area before opening the tank—dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fire extinguisher (Class B)
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Trim removal tool
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel line disconnect pick set
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Brass drift punch (specialty)
• Dead-blow hammer
• Shop vacuum
• Shop towels
• Small drain pan
• Permanent marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring (if damaged) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels.
• Run the fuel level down if possible (under 1/2 tank is easier and less messy).
• Plan to keep the tank opening covered whenever you pause. Cleanliness is everything here.
• Quick question (so I can match the steps): Are you replacing the entire fuel pump module (recommended) or just the pump motor inside the module?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Open the hood and use needle-nose pliers to pull the fuel pump fuse/relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box lid diagram location.
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
• Crank for 2–3 seconds one more time, then turn the key OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

• Move the front seats forward to give yourself room.
• Lift the rear seat bottom cushion (it’s typically held by clips). Use a trim removal tool to pop the clips if needed.
• Find the round/oval service cover and remove any fasteners using a Phillips #2 screwdriver or 10mm socket (varies by cover style).

Step 4: Clean the area (important)

• Use a shop vacuum to remove loose dirt around the pump module top.
• Wipe the area with shop towels so nothing falls into the tank once opened.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

• Unplug the pump electrical connector by pressing the tab. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver gently if the tab is stubborn.
• Place a small drain pan and shop towels under the lines.
• Disconnect the fuel line quick-connect(s). Use the fuel line disconnect pick set only if the connector won’t release by hand.
• Pull straight—don’t twist hard.

Step 6: Mark the module orientation

• Use a permanent marker to mark the position of the module/top plate relative to the tank so it goes back the same way.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

• Best method: use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and a ratchet to rotate the ring loose.
• If you don’t have the ring tool: use a brass drift punch (specialty) with a dead-blow hammer and tap the ring around evenly to loosen it.
• Brass reduces spark risk.

Step 8: Remove the module and old seal

• Carefully lift the module out. Angle it as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank for a moment, then move it to the drain pan.
• Remove the old tank seal/O-ring from the tank opening using a trim removal tool (don’t scratch the sealing surface).

Step 9: Install the new seal and new pump module

• Install the new tank seal/O-ring into the groove/opening (make sure it sits flat and is not twisted).
• Lower the new module in, aligning your marker marks. Keep the float arm from snagging.
• Reinstall the lock ring and tighten it evenly using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) or brass drift punch method until fully seated/locked.

Step 10: Reconnect lines, wiring, and close up

• Reconnect the fuel line(s) until you feel/hear a solid click. Gently tug to confirm they’re locked.
• Plug in the electrical connector.
• Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips #2 screwdriver or 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the rear seat cushion by lining up the clips and pressing down firmly.

Step 11: Restore power and prime the system

• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers if needed.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Turn the key to ON (do not start) for 3–5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3 times to prime the system.
• Start the engine and let it idle.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks at the pump top and fuel line connections while the engine idles.
• If you have a fuel smell inside, stop and recheck the lock ring seating and seal position.
• If the check engine light is on, scan for codes and clear them after confirming no leaks.
• Test drive for 10–15 minutes, then recheck for any fuel odor or dampness under the rear seat.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.