🔧 Renegade - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Renegade, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank “fuel pump module” (pump + level sender). Replacement usually happens from an access cover under the rear seat (easier), but some builds require lowering the fuel tank.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
• ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, heat guns, or drop lights with hot bulbs.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before opening the fuel system.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to prevent spray.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and wear eye protection.
• ⚠️ If you must lower the tank: support it securely; do not let it hang by hoses/wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• Ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench
• Trim removal tool set
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pliers
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Brass punch (non-sparking)
• Small hammer
• Shop towels
• Drain pan
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Transmission jack (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module lock ring - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• If you’ll lower the tank, drive until the tank is near empty; it’s much lighter and safer.
• Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to reduce vapor pressure.
• Plan to keep dirt out: clean around the pump area before opening the tank.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Open the hood.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and set it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Locate the under-hood fuse/relay box (near the battery). Remove the cover.
• Pull the fuel pump fuse/relay (use pliers if needed).
• Reconnect the negative terminal temporarily with the 10mm socket, start the engine, and let it run until it stalls.
• Crank for 3 seconds once more to bleed off leftover pressure.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal again using the 10mm socket.
• Tip: Put the fuse/relay in a labeled cup.

Step 2: Decide your access method (rear-seat access vs tank removal)

• Fold the rear seat forward and inspect the rear seat bottom area.
• If you see an oval/round metal access cover held by screws or sealant, follow Path A.
• If there is no access cover, follow Path B (fuel tank lowering).

Step 3 (Path A): Remove rear seat bottom and access cover

• Use a trim removal tool set to release the rear seat bottom clips and lift the cushion out.
• Vacuum/wipe dirt away from the access area using shop towels.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the access cover fasteners (or gently pry if clipped).

Step 4 (Path A): Disconnect wiring and fuel lines at the module

• Unplug the electrical connector(s) from the module.
• Place shop towels under the line connections.
• Disconnect the quick-connect fuel line(s) using the fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty).
• Tip: Press the line inward before releasing.

Step 5 (Path A): Remove the lock ring and lift out the module

• Mark the module and tank with a reference line using a flat-blade screwdriver (light scratch) so you can install the new one in the same orientation.
• Use a brass punch (non-sparking) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it unlocks.
• Lift the module out slowly; angle it as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
• Remove the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket) and wipe the sealing surface with shop towels.

Step 6 (Path A): Install the new seal and fuel pump module

• Install the new tank seal into the tank groove.
• Apply a light film of clean fuel to the seal (use a shop towel), then set the new module in place aligned to your reference mark.
• Install the new lock ring and tap it clockwise with the brass punch (non-sparking) and small hammer until fully seated against its stops.

Step 7 (Path A): Reconnect lines, wiring, and close up

• Reconnect the quick-connect fuel line(s) by pushing on until they click; tug gently to confirm locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector(s). Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal if desired.
• Reinstall the access cover using the flat-blade screwdriver and reinstall the rear seat cushion using the trim removal tool set to align clips.

Step 3 (Path B): Raise and support the Renegade

• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 4 (Path B): Support the fuel tank

• Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the fuel tank with a block/flat pad so it supports the tank evenly.
• Keep light upward pressure on the tank so straps can be removed safely.

Step 5 (Path B): Disconnect filler neck and lines

• Place a drain pan under the area.
• Use pliers to release hose clamps (if equipped) and carefully disconnect the filler/vent hoses.
• Disconnect electrical connector(s) and fuel line(s) using the fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty).
• Tip: Label hoses with tape before removal.

Step 6 (Path B): Lower the tank and replace the module

• Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the fuel tank strap bolts, then lower straps out of the way.
• Slowly lower the tank with the transmission jack (specialty) enough to access the pump module on top.
• Clean around the module using shop towels.
• Remove the lock ring with the brass punch (non-sparking) and small hammer, replace the seal, install the new module, and seat the new lock ring fully.

Step 7 (Path B): Reinstall the tank

• Raise the tank with the transmission jack (specialty).
• Reinstall straps and strap bolts using the 13mm socket and ratchet; then tighten with a 3/8" torque wrench to the specification for your strap bolts.
• Reconnect filler/vent hoses using pliers for clamps.
• Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical connector(s). Tug lightly on fuel lines to verify locked.

Step 8: Restore fuse/relay and prime the system

• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay and fuse box cover.
• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using the 10mm socket.
• Turn the key to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times to prime the fuel system.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.

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✅ After Repair

• Inspect for leaks at the module top and at every quick-connect line while it idles.
• If you smell strong fuel or see wetness, shut it off immediately and recheck the seal/lock ring seating and line locks.
• Road test for 10 minutes, then recheck for leaks again.
• If the check engine light comes on, you may need a scan for fuel pressure/EVAP codes caused by a loose connection.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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