🔧 Cherokee - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Cherokee, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacement typically requires lowering the fuel tank so you can remove the module locking ring and lift the module out.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
• ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, heat guns, or incandescent work lights near the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Fuel will spill when lines are opened; wear gloves and safety glasses.
• ⚠️ Support the tank before removing straps; a falling tank can injure you.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the fuel pump wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Transmission jack
• Socket set (8mm-18mm)
• Ratchet
• Extension set
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Flat trim tool
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8")
• Pliers
• Pick tool
• Shop towels
• Drain pan
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module lock ring - Qty: 1
• EVAP line retaining clip assortment - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Start with the tank as close to empty as possible (1/8 tank or less). A full tank is heavy and harder to control.
• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Plan how you will relieve fuel pressure: easiest is to remove the fuel pump relay/fuse and crank briefly, then turn key OFF.
• Two quick questions (so I can tailor this): Are you replacing the entire fuel pump module or just the pump motor? Also, do you have access to a transmission jack (or a stable way to support the tank)?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Open the hood and use an 8mm-10mm socket (varies by clamp) to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp, then remove the negative cable. Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) when reinstalling later.
• Locate the under-hood fuse/relay box and remove the fuel pump relay (use pliers if needed).
• Reconnect the negative cable temporarily, start the engine and let it stall, then crank 2-3 seconds more. Turn key OFF.
• Disconnect the negative cable again using the 8mm-10mm socket.

Step 2: Raise and support the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear and set the vehicle securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Keep the wheel chocks in place.

Step 3: Support the fuel tank

• Position a transmission jack under the center of the fuel tank.
• Use a piece of wood (if you have it) on the jack pad to spread the load. Helps prevent tank damage.

Step 4: Disconnect filler/vent connections (as accessible)

• From under the vehicle, use a flat trim tool and/or pliers to release any shields or retainers blocking the filler/vent area.
• Use pliers to release hose clamps (if equipped) and carefully work the hoses free.
• Use shop towels to catch drips.

Step 5: Disconnect EVAP and fuel lines at the tank

• Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector using a pick tool to lift the lock tab if needed.
• For quick-connect fuel lines, use the fuel line disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8") to release the connectors, then pull the lines straight off.
• Cap/cover open lines with shop towels to limit vapor and contamination.

Step 6: Remove the tank straps and lower the tank

• Use the appropriate socket set (13mm-18mm) and ratchet to remove the fuel tank strap bolts while the tank is supported.
• Lower the tank slowly with the transmission jack, stopping to check for any remaining hoses/wires.
• Remove any remaining connections using the pliers or flat trim tool, then lower the tank enough to access the fuel pump module.
• When reinstalling strap bolts: Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Clean the area and remove the lock ring

• Use shop towels to wipe dirt from the top of the module area. Dirt in the tank causes problems.
• Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a ratchet to rotate the lock ring counterclockwise and remove it.
• Lift the lock ring off and remove the old tank seal (O-ring) using a pick tool.

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

• Carefully lift the module straight up. Angle it as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
• Let fuel drain from the module into a drain pan.
• Compare the old and new module to confirm the connectors and line ports match.

Step 9: Install the new seal and module

• Install the new tank seal (O-ring) into the tank groove by hand (no tools). Make sure it sits flat and is not twisted.
• Lower the new module into place, aligning the index marks/tabs.
• Install the new lock ring, then use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a ratchet to tighten until fully seated/locked.

Step 10: Raise the tank and reconnect everything

• Use the transmission jack to raise the tank slowly.
• Reconnect EVAP lines and fuel lines until they click; gently tug to confirm they’re locked.
• Reconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
• Reinstall filler/vent hoses and any retainers using pliers and a flat trim tool.
• Reinstall and tighten the tank straps using the socket set and torque wrench. Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Restore power and prime the fuel system

• Reinstall the fuel pump relay in the fuse/relay box (use pliers if needed).
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using the 8mm-10mm socket. Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Prime the system: turn the key to ON (engine off) for 3 seconds, OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3-4 times.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• Inspect under the vehicle for any fuel seepage at the quick-connect fittings and tank seal area.
• If you have a check engine light, scan and clear codes after confirming there are no leaks.
• Road test for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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