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2018 Honda HR-V
2018 Honda HR-V
EX-L - Inline 4 1.8L
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2018 & 2019 Honda HR-V Fuel Pump Recall | Norm Reeves Honda West Covina

2018 & 2019 Honda HR-V Fuel Pump Recall | Norm Reeves Honda West Covina

Suggested Parts

No Tools

No Parts Required

Tools & Fluids

Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Honda HR-V (In-Tank Pump)

Step-by-step rear-seat access guide with safety tips, required tools/parts, and lock ring torque specs

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Honda HR-V (In-Tank Pump)

Step-by-step rear-seat access guide with safety tips, required tools/parts, and lock ring torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ HR-V - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your HR-V, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank pump/module assembly. Replacement is done from inside the cabin (under the rear seat access cover), but it requires careful handling of fuel vapors and the sealing O-ring to prevent leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🔥 Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
  • 🔥 No smoking, no shop lights with hot bulbs, no grinding/sparks nearby.
  • đź§Ż Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before opening the tank access.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid spray.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the tank; contamination can damage the new pump.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Fire extinguisher (Class B)
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3" extension (3/8")
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Trim/panel removal tool
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Fuel line disconnect pick tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Brass drift/punch
  • Small hammer
  • Shop towels
  • Plastic drain pan
  • Marker pen

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock a rear wheel.
  • Lower the fuel level if possible; under 1/2 tank is easier and safer.
  • Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to reduce tank vapor pressure.
  • Plan to keep the cabin clean: lay shop towels around the access opening.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and locate the under-hood fuse/relay box.
  • Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the fuse box cover.
  • Pull the fuel pump fuse/relay (labeled for fuel pump) using needle-nose pliers.
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 3 seconds to finish bleeding pressure.
  • Turn ignition OFF and remove the key/fob from the vehicle area.
  • Tip: This reduces spray when lines disconnect.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

  • Slide the front seats forward.
  • Remove the rear seat bottom cushion (it’s retained by clips). Use a trim/panel removal tool to pop the front edge clips up carefully.
  • Locate the fuel pump access cover in the floor under the seat area.
  • Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 (or 10mm socket, depending on fasteners) to remove the access cover fasteners and lift the cover.

Step 4: Clean and mark the pump module position

  • Use shop towels to wipe dust away from the top of the pump module.
  • Use a marker pen to mark the orientation of the module relative to the tank (helps prevent pinched lines on reinstall).

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

  • Unplug the pump electrical connector by releasing the lock tab using a small flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Place a plastic drain pan and shop towels under the fuel line connection area.
  • Disconnect the fuel quick-connect fitting using a fuel line disconnect pick tool while pulling the line straight off.
  • Tip: Pull straight—twisting can damage the connector.

Step 6: Remove the pump module lock ring

  • Use a brass drift/punch and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it unlocks.
  • Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
  • Tip: Brass reduces spark risk versus steel.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Carefully lift the module straight up. Angle it as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
  • Let fuel drain from the module into the tank for a few seconds, then move it to the plastic drain pan.
  • Remove and discard the old tank seal using a trim/panel removal tool.

Step 8: Install the new seal and new pump module

  • Install the new fuel pump module tank seal O-ring into the tank groove; ensure it sits flat and is not twisted.
  • Lower the new module into the tank in the same orientation as your marks.
  • Reinstall the lock ring and tighten it by tapping clockwise with the brass drift/punch and small hammer until fully seated and aligned with the stop marks.
  • Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs) if using an appropriate lock-ring tool and torque method.

Step 9: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical

  • Reconnect the fuel quick-connect until it clicks; gently pull back to confirm it’s locked.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 10: Reinstall access cover and seat

  • Reinstall the service cover and fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the rear seat cushion by lining up the hooks/clips and pushing down firmly until it snaps in.

Step 11: Restore fuse/relay and battery

  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay in the under-hood fuse box.
  • Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket and ratchet.

âś… After Repair

  • Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 2-3 times to prime the system.
  • Start the engine and let it idle while you check for fuel smell or dampness at the module top and line connection.
  • Take a short test drive, then recheck for leaks again.
  • If you have a check engine light after the repair, scan for codes—an EVAP/fuel pressure code can appear if a connector isn’t fully seated.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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