🔧 Yukon - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Yukon, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it means safely lowering the fuel tank, swapping the module, and reinstalling everything without damaging fuel lines or seals.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—fuel vapors ignite easily.
• ⚠️ No smoking, no flames, no hot work lights; use an LED work light.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid spray.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.
• ⚠️ Support the tank with a jack—fuel is heavy and unstable.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fire extinguisher (Class B)
• Socket set (8mm-18mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (3/8" and 1/2")
• Hose clamp pliers
• Drain pan (2+ gallon)
• Shop towels
• Brass punch and hammer (specialty)
• Fuel-safe marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel tank strap bolt set - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
• Drive until the tank is near empty if possible—this makes the tank much lighter.
• Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to help vent pressure.
• Plan your lift points: raise the rear and support the frame securely on jack stands.
• Disconnect the battery: use an 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and isolate it.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

• Remove the underhood fuse box cover using your hands and a flat-blade screwdriver if needed.
• Pull the fuel pump fuse/relay (label varies) using your fingers or needle-nose pliers if you have them.
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank 3 seconds more to bleed pressure.
• Turn key OFF.
• Put a towel over the fuel cap area.

Step 2: Raise and support the Yukon

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed under the frame.
• Keep the floor jack available to support the fuel tank.

Step 3: Support the fuel tank

• Place a wide piece of wood (if available) on the floor jack pad to spread the load.
• Raise the floor jack until it just contacts the bottom of the tank.

Step 4: Remove any shields that block the tank straps (if equipped)

• Use an socket set (8mm-18mm) and ratchet (3/8") to remove bolts holding any skid plate/shields near the tank.
• Set fasteners aside in order so they go back to the same locations.

Step 5: Disconnect the filler neck and vent connections

• At the filler neck area, loosen clamps using a socket set (8mm-18mm) or a flat-blade screwdriver (depends on clamp style).
• Use hose clamp pliers to release any spring clamps on vent hoses.
• Carefully twist and pull hoses off. Use shop towels to catch drips.

Step 6: Lower the tank slightly to access lines and wiring

• Support the tank firmly with the floor jack.
• Remove the tank strap bolts using a socket set (8mm-18mm), ratchet (3/8"), and breaker bar (1/2") if tight.
• Slowly lower the tank a few inches with the floor jack—stop when you can reach the top connections.
• Lower slowly—wires and lines are still attached.

Step 7: Disconnect electrical connector(s) at the pump module

• Unplug the fuel pump module connector by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver only to gently help the lock tab if stuck.
• Use a fuel-safe marker to mark connector routing if needed.

Step 8: Disconnect fuel feed/EVAP quick-connect lines

• Place a drain pan (2+ gallon) under the connections and wrap with shop towels.
• Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (3/8" and 1/2") to release the fuel line(s).
• Remove any line retaining clips using a flat-blade screwdriver and replace damaged clips.
• Expect some fuel—this is normal.

Step 9: Fully lower and remove the tank

• With all lines disconnected, lower the tank the rest of the way using the floor jack.
• Slide the tank out from under the vehicle with help (recommended).

Step 10: Clean the pump module area

• Brush/blow off dirt around the lock ring so debris doesn’t fall into the tank.
• Use shop towels to wipe the area clean.

Step 11: Remove the lock ring and fuel pump module

• Use a brass punch and hammer (specialty) to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases. (A brass punch is softer than steel to reduce spark risk.)
• Lift the pump module straight up carefully, angling as needed to clear the float arm.
• Remove the old seal O-ring by hand and discard it.

Step 12: Install the new seal and new pump module

• Install the new fuel pump module tank seal O-ring in the tank groove by hand.
• Carefully lower the new module into the tank, keeping the float arm from bending.
• Reinstall the lock ring and tighten it using the brass punch and hammer (specialty) until fully seated.

Step 13: Reinstall the tank and reconnect everything

• Lift the tank back into position using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Reconnect the electrical connector by hand until it clicks.
• Reconnect fuel/EVAP lines by hand until they click/lock, then gently tug to confirm locked.
• Reinstall the tank straps and bolts using an socket set (8mm-18mm) and ratchet (3/8").
• Tighten strap bolts with a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs): Torque to factory specification.
• Reconnect filler/vent hoses and tighten clamps using a socket set (8mm-18mm) or flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reinstall shields/skid plates using an socket set (8mm-18mm) and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs): Torque to factory specification.

Step 14: Restore fuel pump power and prime the system

• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Turn ignition ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times to prime.
• Start the engine and let it idle.

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✅ After Repair

• Check carefully for leaks at the top-of-tank line connections and along the fuel lines while idling.
• Clear any fuel-related codes if the check engine light stays on (a scan tool may be needed).
• Test drive 5-10 minutes, then recheck for leaks and fuel smell.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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