How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 (In-Tank)
Step-by-step bed-lift or tank-drop methods with tools, parts list, safety tips, and priming steps
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 GMC Sierra 1500 (In-Tank)
Step-by-step bed-lift or tank-drop methods with tools, parts list, safety tips, and priming steps


š§ Sierra 1500 - Fuel Pump Module Replacement
On your Sierra 1500, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module (pump + level sender + strainer). Replacement usually means either lowering the fuel tank or lifting/removing the pickup bed to access the top of the tank.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
- ā ļø No smoking, no heaters, no shop lights with hot bulbs near the truck.
- ā ļø Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
- ā ļø Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines to prevent fuel spray.
- ā ļø Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
- ā ļø Support the tank/bed securelyānever rely on a jack alone.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher Class B
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Socket set (8mm-21mm)
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (3/8" and 1/2")
- Flathead screwdriver
- Brass punch (specialty)
- Dead-blow hammer
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Drain pan
- Shop towels
- Permanent marker
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump strainer sock - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels.
- Plan to work with a low fuel level (under 1/4 tank is best). A full tank is heavy and harder to control.
- Relieve fuel pressure: pull the fuel pump relay (underhood fuse block), start the engine, and let it stall. Crank 2-3 more seconds. Turn key OFF.
- Disconnect the battery: use a socket to remove the negative (-) battery cable and isolate it so it canāt spring back.
- Quick-disconnect tool = releases fuel line locks.
- Transmission jack = wide stable jack for tanks.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Choose your access method
- If you have help or a lift, the bed-lift method is often cleaner (top access).
- If youāre working solo on jack stands, the tank-lower method is common but heavier.
- Proceed with the method below that fits your setup.
Step 2A: Bed-lift method (recommended if you have help)
- Open the fuel door and remove the fuel cap by hand.
- Disconnect the tail lamp harness plugs near the rear using a flathead screwdriver to release locks (go gently).
- Remove bed bolts using the correct socket and a breaker bar.
- With 2-3 helpers, lift the bed up and rearward enough to access the top of the tank, or remove it fully.
- Torque to OEM specification when reinstalling bed bolts.
Step 2B: Tank-lower method (most common at home)
- Raise the rear of the truck with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
- Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack (specialty).
- Disconnect the filler neck and vent hoses at the tank using a flathead screwdriver (loosen clamps) and twist hoses off.
- Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector on top/front of the tank (reach from the side).
- Disconnect the fuel lines using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (3/8" and 1/2").
- Remove the tank strap bolts using a socket and ratchet, then slowly lower the tank with the transmission jack (specialty).
- Torque to OEM specification when reinstalling tank strap bolts.
Step 3: Clean the top of the tank
- Use shop towels to wipe dirt away from the pump module area.
- This prevents dirt from falling into the tank when the module comes out.
Step 4: Remove the fuel pump lock ring
- Mark the module and tank alignment with a permanent marker so the new one goes in the same orientation.
- Use a brass punch (specialty) and dead-blow hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Brass punch helps avoid sparks.
Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module
- Lift the module up carefully by hand; tilt it as needed to clear the float arm.
- Have a drain pan ready; fuel will drip from the module.
- Remove and discard the old seal O-ring from the tank opening.
Step 6: Install the new seal and module
- Install the new tank seal O-ring into the groove (make sure itās fully seated and not twisted).
- Lower the new module into the tank, keeping the float arm from bending.
- Align it to your marks.
Step 7: Reinstall and lock the retaining ring
- Install the lock ring and tap it clockwise using the brass punch (specialty) and dead-blow hammer until fully seated/locked.
- Double-check the seal didnāt pinch out of place.
Step 8: Reconnect lines, connector, and reassemble
- Reconnect fuel lines until they click/lock using your hands; tug lightly to confirm locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector by hand until it clicks.
- If tank-lower method: raise tank with the transmission jack (specialty), reinstall straps using a socket and ratchet, then torque to OEM specification.
- If bed-lift method: reinstall bed bolts using a socket and torque wrench, then torque to OEM specification.
- Reconnect filler/vent hoses using a flathead screwdriver to tighten clamps.
Step 9: Restore power and prime the fuel system
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a socket.
- Reinstall the fuel pump relay by hand.
- Prime: key ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, key OFF for 10 secondsārepeat 3 times.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
ā After Repair
- Inspect for leaks at the top of the tank (module seal) and at every fuel line connection while idling.
- Clear any codes if a check-engine light appears (a loose connector can trigger it).
- Test drive nearby first, then re-check for fuel smell/leaks when you return.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$1,100 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















