🔧 Charger - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Charger, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it means safely relieving fuel pressure, disconnecting the wiring and fuel lines, and removing the module from the fuel tank without letting dirt fall into the tank.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🔥 Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
• 🔥 No smoking, sparks, heat guns, or shop lights that can break.
• 🧯 Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚡ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
• 🛑 Depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting any fuel line.
• 🧼 Clean the top of the tank/module area first so debris doesn’t fall into the tank.
• 🧱 Support the vehicle securely on jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fire extinguisher (Class B)
• Ratchet
• Socket set (8mm-18mm)
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Flat trim tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Brass punch and mallet
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Drain pan
• Shop towels
• Marker pen

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips (if damaged) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
• Try to work with the tank below 1/4 full; a lighter tank is much safer to handle.
• Quick question 1: Do you have an access cover under the rear seat (a round/oval metal cover with screws)?
• Quick question 2: Are you replacing the entire fuel pump module (recommended), or just the pump inside it?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Depressurize the fuel system

• Open the hood.
• Use 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Remove the fuel pump relay/fuse from the underhood fuse box (lid diagram shows the location).
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Crank for 3 seconds once more to relieve leftover pressure.

Step 2: Choose your access method

• If you have a service cover under the rear seat, follow Path A below.
• If you do not have a service cover, you must lower the fuel tank; follow Path B below.

Path A: Through rear seat service cover (if equipped)

Step 3A: Remove the rear seat cushion

• Use a flat trim tool to release the front seat cushion clips (push in at the clip area, then lift).
• Lift the cushion out and set it aside.

Step 4A: Open the service cover and disconnect lines

• Clean around the cover using shop towels so dirt won’t fall inside.
• Remove the cover fasteners using the appropriate socket set (8mm-10mm).
• Unplug the module electrical connector by hand (use needle-nose pliers only if needed—don’t break the lock).
• Disconnect the fuel line(s) using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty); catch any fuel in a drain pan.

Step 5A: Remove the lock ring and module

• Mark the module position with a marker pen so the new one goes in the same orientation.
• Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) to loosen the lock ring.
• If needed, use a brass punch and mallet to tap the ring carefully. Brass helps prevent sparks.
• Lift the module out slowly; angle it as needed so the float arm clears without bending.
• Remove the old tank seal O-ring and install the new fuel pump module tank seal O-ring.

Step 6A: Install new module

• Lower the new module straight in, aligned to your marks.
• Install and tighten the lock ring using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) until fully seated and aligned.
• Reconnect fuel line(s) until you feel/hear a “click,” then tug lightly to confirm it’s locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector.
• Reinstall the service cover fasteners using the socket set (8mm-10mm) and torque wrench: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 7A: Reinstall the rear seat cushion

• Position the cushion and press down firmly at the front clip points until it snaps in.

Path B: Lower the fuel tank (if no service cover)

Step 3B: Raise and support the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear.
• Set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the correct rear lift points.

Step 4B: Support the fuel tank

• Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the center of the fuel tank with a flat pad (a block of wood works well).

Step 5B: Disconnect electrical and fuel lines at the tank

• Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector(s) by hand.
• Disconnect fuel/EVAP lines using the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty).
• Use shop towels and a drain pan to catch drips.

Step 6B: Remove tank straps and lower the tank

• Use a 15mm socket to remove the fuel tank strap bolts while the tank is supported.
• Slowly lower the tank a few inches with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and check for any remaining lines/wires.
• Lower the tank enough to access the top of the module.

Step 7B: Remove and replace the fuel pump module

• Clean the top of the tank using shop towels.
• Mark orientation using a marker pen.
• Remove the lock ring with a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) (or brass punch and mallet carefully).
• Remove the module, replace the seal with the new fuel pump module tank seal O-ring, and install the new module.
• Tighten the lock ring using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) until fully seated and aligned.

Step 8B: Reinstall the tank

• Raise the tank with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Reinstall straps and bolts using a 15mm socket.
• Use a torque wrench: Torque strap bolts to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect all fuel/EVAP lines until they click; tug lightly to verify they’re locked.
• Reconnect electrical connector(s).

Step 9: Restore power and prime the system

• Reinstall the fuel pump relay/fuse by hand.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket: Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
• Turn the key to ON (engine off) for 3 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds. Repeat 3 times to prime the system.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
• Inspect for leaks at every fuel connection point you touched.
• If the engine cranks but won’t start, repeat the prime cycle (Step 9) and recheck the electrical connector.
• Test drive gently, then recheck for fuel smell or seepage.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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