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2016 Nissan Murano
2016 Nissan Murano
S - V6 3.5L
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2015–2021 Nissan Murano Fuel Pump Replacement | Full DIY Guide

2015–2021 Nissan Murano Fuel Pump Replacement | Full DIY Guide

Suggested Parts

No Tools

No Parts Required

Tools & Fluids

Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Nissan Murano (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, fuel pressure relief, lock ring removal, and priming instructions

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Nissan Murano (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, fuel pressure relief, lock ring removal, and priming instructions

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Murano - Fuel Pump Replacement

Your Murano’s fuel pump lives inside the fuel tank as part of a pump module. Replacing it is mostly about working safely around gasoline, relieving fuel pressure, and swapping the module without damaging the seal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Your Murano has an in-cabin access cover under the rear seat.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, heat guns, or trouble lights with hot bulbs.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental sparks.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines.
  • ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and wear safety glasses and gloves.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3" extension (3/8")
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Flat-blade screwdriver (medium)
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
  • Brass punch (specialty)
  • Small hammer
  • Torque wrench (5-25 Nm range)
  • Shop towels
  • Catch pan (drain pan)
  • Handheld vacuum
  • Permanent marker

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module seal O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to help release tank vapor pressure.
  • Relieve fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay, then crank the engine for 5-10 seconds a couple times until it won’t start.
  • Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
  • Vacuum dirt from the rear seat area so debris can’t fall into the tank.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion

  • Use a plastic trim removal tool to pop the front seat-cushion clips up (push the tool under the front edge and pry upward).
  • Lift the cushion out and set it aside.

Step 2: Open the fuel pump access cover

  • Locate the access cover in the floor under the rear seat area.
  • Remove fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket (varies by cover style).
  • Lift the cover and set it aside.

Step 3: Clean the area (critical)

  • Use a handheld vacuum to remove loose dust around the pump flange (the round top plate).
  • Wipe the area with shop towels. Clean first, so dirt won’t enter the tank.

Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

  • Unplug the pump electrical connector using a flat-blade screwdriver (medium) to gently lift the lock tab if needed.
  • Place a catch pan (drain pan) and shop towels under the lines to catch fuel.
  • Disconnect the quick-connect fuel line(s) using a fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty).
  • If a line won’t release, re-check fuel pressure relief and make sure you’re using the correct size tool.

Step 5: Mark orientation

  • Use a permanent marker to mark the pump module position relative to the tank (helps reinstall the same way).

Step 6: Remove the lock ring

  • Use a brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it unlocks.
  • Lift the lock ring off. Brass reduces spark risk versus steel.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Carefully lift the module up. Tilt it slightly to clear the float arm (the fuel level sensor arm).
  • Let fuel drain from the module into the tank for a few seconds, then move it over the catch pan (drain pan).
  • Remove and discard the old seal O-ring from the tank opening.

Step 8: Install the new seal and module

  • Install the new fuel pump module seal O-ring into the tank groove (make sure it’s not twisted).
  • Lower the new pump module into the tank, guiding the float arm in without bending it.
  • Align your marker lines so the module sits in the same orientation.

Step 9: Reinstall the lock ring

  • Install the lock ring and tap it clockwise with the brass punch (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated/locked.
  • If your lock ring design uses small bolts instead (some variants do), install them using a 10mm socket and torque wrench (5-25 Nm range), Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect lines, connector, and close the access cover

  • Reconnect fuel line(s) by pushing on until you feel/hear a click; gently tug to confirm locked.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
  • Reinstall the access cover using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket.

Step 11: Reinstall the rear seat cushion

  • Position the cushion and press down firmly at the front edge to snap the clips back in.

Step 12: Restore power and prime the system

  • Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay (if removed).
  • Prime the pump: turn ignition to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
  • Check carefully for fuel leaks at the pump top and fuel line connections.
  • If the fuel gauge reads wrong, recheck the module orientation and float arm movement.
  • Road test for 10 minutes, then recheck for any fuel smell or dampness under the rear seat access area.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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