How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (In-Tank Pump)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and leak-check/priming steps
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (In-Tank Pump)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and leak-check/priming steps
🔧 GS350 - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your GS350, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank pump module. The job is mostly about safely relieving fuel pressure, accessing the pump through the rear-seat service cover, swapping the module, and resealing everything so there are no fuel leaks.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
Assumption: Your GS350 uses the under-rear-seat access cover to the in-tank pump module (common on this platform).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, flames, heat guns, or incandescent work lights near the car.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid spray.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Replace the pump seal/gasket; reusing it can cause leaks and fuel smell.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 10mm ratchet
- 6-inch extension for 3/8-inch drive
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Trim removal tool set (plastic)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Brass punch set (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Torque wrench 5-60 Nm range
- Shop towels
- Catch pan
- Permanent marker
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module seal/gasket - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retaining clip(s) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and keep doors open for ventilation.
- ⛽ Aim to have less than 1/4 tank of fuel; it reduces vapor and slosh.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
- 🧯 Set a fire extinguisher within reach and keep rags ready for spills.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Remove the fuel pump/fuel system fuse or relay (usually in the engine-bay fuse box) using needle-nose pliers.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 2-3 seconds to remove leftover pressure.
- Turn ignition OFF and reinstall the fuse/relay.
- Tip: This prevents fuel spraying at disconnection.
Step 2: Remove the rear seat cushion
- Move the front seats forward for space.
- Release the seat cushion clips and lift the cushion out using a trim removal tool set (plastic).
- Set the seat cushion aside where it won’t get fuel smell on it.
Step 3: Open the fuel pump service cover
- Find the metal service cover under the seat and remove fasteners using a 10mm socket and 10mm ratchet.
- Peel back any butyl sealer carefully with a trim removal tool set (plastic).
- Clean dust around the pump top with shop towels so dirt can’t fall into the tank.
Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector(s)
- Unplug the pump module connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight off.
- If the tab is stubborn, gently assist with a trim removal tool set (plastic) (do not pry hard).
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel line(s)
- Place a catch pan and shop towels under the line connection.
- Disconnect the quick-connect fitting using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty).
- A “quick-connect” is a spring-lock fuel fitting that releases when the correct tool pushes the internal retainer back.
- Cap or wrap the line end with shop towels to reduce fumes.
Step 6: Mark and remove the pump lock ring
- Use a permanent marker to mark the relationship between the tank, lock ring, and module so it goes back aligned.
- The “lock ring” is the large ring that twists to clamp the pump module to the tank.
- Tap the lock ring counterclockwise using a brass punch set (specialty) and small hammer.
- Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
- Tip: Use brass to reduce spark risk.
Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module straight up; angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sensor).
- Let fuel drain into the tank for a few seconds, then move the module to the catch pan.
- Remove the old seal/gasket from the tank opening using a trim removal tool set (plastic).
Step 8: Install the new seal and pump module
- Install the new fuel pump module seal/gasket onto the tank opening (make sure it sits flat and isn’t twisted).
- Lower the new in-tank fuel pump module assembly into the tank, keeping the float arm from binding.
- Align the module to your paint marks.
Step 9: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring
- Install the lock ring and hand-seat it.
- Tighten by tapping clockwise with the brass punch set (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated at the marks.
- If your setup uses lock-ring bolts instead of a twist ring, install and tighten using a 10mm socket and torque wrench 5-60 Nm range to Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
- Tip: Even pressure prevents leaks.
Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical
- Reconnect the fuel quick-connect until you hear/feel a click, then pull back gently to confirm it’s locked.
- Install any new fuel line retaining clip(s) if your connector uses them.
- Reconnect the electrical connector(s) until fully seated.
Step 11: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the service cover using a 10mm socket and 10mm ratchet.
- Reinstall the rear seat cushion and press down firmly to latch the clips.
Step 12: Restore battery power
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Key ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3 times to prime the system.
- 🧼 Start the engine and inspect the pump top and fuel line connection for leaks for 2-3 minutes.
- 🛑 If you smell fuel inside the cabin, shut the engine off and recheck the seal and lock ring seating.
- 🔎 If a check engine light appears, scan and clear codes after confirming no leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















