🔧 Renegade - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Renegade, the fuel pump is part of a fuel pump module inside the fuel tank. Replacement usually requires lowering the fuel tank to access the module, then swapping the assembly and sealing it correctly to prevent leaks and fuel smell.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are highly flammable.
• ⚠️ No smoking, flames, heaters, or power tools that can spark near the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher within reach.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable before opening any fuel lines.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines to prevent spray.
• ⚠️ Support the fuel tank at all times; it can shift suddenly when straps are loosened.
• ⚠️ If the tank is more than 1/4 full, siphon/drain fuel first to reduce weight.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Socket set 8mm-18mm
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Extensions 3/8" drive (3" and 6")
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 Nm range)
• Flat trim tool
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Pliers
• Hose clamp pliers
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Shop towels
• Fuel-safe hand siphon pump (specialty)
• Brass punch and hammer
• Transmission jack (specialty)
• OBD2 scan tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line quick-connect O-rings - Qty: 1 kit
• Evaporative hose clamp kit - Qty: 1
• Fuel filter - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• ⛽ Drive until the tank is near empty if possible; use a fuel-safe hand siphon pump to remove extra fuel into approved containers.
• 🔋 Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• 🧯 Set your Class B fire extinguisher nearby and keep the area clear.
• 🧠 Quick-connect fittings are snap-on fuel connectors; they release with the correct disconnect tool.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

• Use an OBD2 scan tool to check for stored fuel-related codes and save them for reference.
• Open the fuel filler door and loosen the gas cap to vent tank pressure.
• Crank the engine for a few seconds; if it starts, let it run until it stalls. Then crank 2-3 more seconds. This helps reduce line pressure.

Step 2: Raise and support the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at approved lift points.
• Set the vehicle securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Keep the floor jack available for supporting the tank.

Step 3: Support the fuel tank

• Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the center of the fuel tank.
• Use a flat board (if available) between jack and tank to spread the load.

Step 4: Remove underbody shields near the tank

• Use a socket set 8mm-18mm and ratchet 3/8" to remove the fasteners holding any rear underbody panels/shields.
• Use a flat trim tool for plastic clips.

Step 5: Disconnect electrical connectors at the tank

• Locate the fuel pump module wiring connector(s) on top/side of the tank area.
• Release the lock tabs using a flat trim tool, then unplug by hand.

Step 6: Disconnect EVAP and vent hoses

• Use hose clamp pliers to release any spring clamps.
• Use pliers as needed to slide clamps back, then twist hoses gently to break them free.
• Place shop towels under connections to catch drips.

Step 7: Disconnect fuel supply line(s)

• Clean the area around the fuel line connection with shop towels to keep dirt out.
• Use a fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) to release the quick-connect fitting, then pull the line straight off.
• Catch any fuel in a drain pan (at least 10-quart).

Step 8: Lower the tank (controlled)

• Use a socket set 8mm-18mm with ratchet 3/8" and extensions 3/8" drive (3" and 6") to remove/loosen the fuel tank strap bolts.
• Lower the tank slowly with the transmission jack (specialty), stopping to check for any hoses/wires still attached.
• Lower a little, check, then lower again.

Step 9: Remove the fuel pump module lock ring

• With the tank low enough to access the top, clean dirt away from the pump module area using shop towels.
• Use a brass punch and hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases. (Brass is used to reduce spark risk.)
• Lift off the lock ring and remove the old seal.

Step 10: Remove the fuel pump module

• Carefully lift the module straight up, tilting as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sensor arm).
• Drain fuel from the module into the drain pan (at least 10-quart).
• Remove and discard the old fuel pump module seal O-ring.

Step 11: Install the new seal and pump module

• Install the new fuel pump module seal O-ring into the tank opening.
• Lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank, aligning the index marks.
• Reinstall the lock ring and use the brass punch and hammer to tighten clockwise until fully seated.

Step 12: Raise the tank and reconnect lines

• Raise the tank with the transmission jack (specialty) into position.
• Reconnect fuel line quick-connects by pushing them on until they click; lightly tug to confirm locked.
• Reconnect EVAP/vent hoses and clamps using hose clamp pliers and pliers.
• Reconnect electrical connectors by pushing in until the lock tab clicks.

Step 13: Reinstall tank straps and shields

• Install and tighten tank strap bolts using a socket set 8mm-18mm and ratchet 3/8".
• Use a torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 Nm range) to final tighten: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall underbody shields using a socket set 8mm-18mm and flat trim tool for clips.

Step 14: Reconnect battery and prime the fuel system

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Turn ignition to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3-4 times to prime the system.
• Start the engine and let it idle.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 With the engine idling, inspect all fuel line connections and the tank area for leaks or fuel smell.
• 🧰 Use an OBD2 scan tool to clear any stored codes and confirm none return.
• 🚗 Road test for 10-15 minutes, then re-check for seepage under the vehicle.
• ⛽ Reinstall and tighten the gas cap fully (clicks) to prevent EVAP leak codes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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