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2016 Jeep Cherokee
2016 Jeep Cherokee
75th Anniversary - Inline 4 2.4L
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How to Replace the fuel pump on the Jeep Cherokee 2014 to 2019

How to Replace the fuel pump on the Jeep Cherokee 2014 to 2019

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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Jeep Cherokee (In-Tank Repair Guide)

Step-by-step instructions for access panel or tank drop, with required tools, parts, safety tips, and post-install priming checks

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Jeep Cherokee (In-Tank Repair Guide)

Step-by-step instructions for access panel or tank drop, with required tools, parts, safety tips, and post-install priming checks

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Cherokee - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

The fuel pump on your Cherokee is inside the fuel tank as part of a pump/sender “module.” Replacement involves safely depressurizing the fuel system, disconnecting fuel and electrical connections, and swapping the module with a new seal so it doesn’t leak fuel vapors.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, hot lights, or power tools that can arc near the open tank.
  • ⚠️ Depressurize the fuel system before opening any fuel line.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging the pump wiring.
  • ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.
  • ⚠️ If you must drop the tank, support it with a transmission jack; a fuel-filled tank is heavy.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Fuel-resistant gloves
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • Trim removal tool
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Pick tool set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • Socket set 8mm-18mm
  • Torx bit set T20-T30
  • Torque wrench 10-100 Nm
  • Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
  • Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
  • Shop towels
  • Drain pan
  • Marker pen
  • OBD2 scan tool
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Transmission jack (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line quick-connect retainer clips - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
  • If possible, drive until the tank is near 1/4 full to make the job safer and easier.
  • Depressurize fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay, start the engine, and let it run until it stalls; crank 2 more seconds, then key OFF.
  • Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
  • Wipe/clean the area before opening the tank so dirt cannot fall inside.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure and power down

  • Use an OBD2 scan tool to check for any stored fuel pressure/pump codes and save them for reference.
  • Use a socket set 8mm-18mm to open the under-hood fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay.
  • Start the engine and let it stall, then turn the key OFF.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Prevents sparks near fuel.

Step 2: Choose the correct access method

  • Path A (Service access panel under rear seat): Continue to Step 3.
  • Path B (No access panel): Skip to Step 9 to lower the fuel tank.

Step 3: Remove the rear seat cushion (Path A)

  • Use a trim removal tool to release the front seat cushion retainers (pull upward at the front edge).
  • If your cushion uses bolts, remove them with a socket set 8mm-18mm.
  • Lift the cushion out and set it aside.

Step 4: Open the fuel pump service cover (Path A)

  • Use a Phillips screwdriver or Torx bit set T20-T30 to remove the service cover fasteners.
  • Peel back any sealer carefully using a pick tool set.
  • Clean the area using shop towels so dirt can’t drop into the tank.

Step 5: Disconnect electrical connector and fuel lines (Path A)

  • Unplug the pump electrical connector by releasing the lock tab using a pick tool set.
  • Place a drain pan and shop towels under the connections.
  • Disconnect the quick-connect fuel line(s) using a fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) (this tool releases the internal spring clip without breaking the fitting).
  • Cap/cover the open lines with clean shop towels to reduce vapor and contamination.

Step 6: Mark orientation and remove the lock ring (Path A)

  • Use a marker pen to mark the module position relative to the tank.
  • Remove the lock ring using a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) (it grips the ring evenly so you don’t crack it).
  • Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module (Path A)

  • Carefully lift the module out while guiding the float arm and strainer past the tank opening.
  • Have a drain pan ready; the module will drip fuel.
  • Remove the old tank seal O-ring from the tank opening using a pick tool set.

Step 8: Install the new module and seal (Path A)

  • Install the new O-ring seal into the tank groove using your hands and fuel-resistant gloves. Do not twist the seal.
  • Lower the new module in, aligning your marks, and ensure the seal stays seated.
  • Install a new lock ring and tighten using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) until fully seated/aligned to the stop marks.
  • Reconnect fuel line(s) by pushing until they click; gently tug to confirm locked.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until the lock clicks.
  • Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver or Torx bit set T20-T30.
  • Reinstall the rear seat cushion (reverse removal). If bolts were removed, tighten with a torque wrench 10-100 Nm to the specification for your seat fasteners.

Step 9: Lower the fuel tank (Path B)

  • Raise and support the vehicle: use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and place it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Support the tank with a transmission jack (specialty).
  • Remove any shields/undercovers using a socket set 8mm-18mm and Torx bit set T20-T30.
  • Disconnect the filler neck/EVAP connections as equipped using needle-nose pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Disconnect the pump electrical connector(s) using a pick tool set.
  • Disconnect fuel lines using the fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty).
  • Remove tank strap bolts using a socket set 8mm-18mm, then slowly lower the tank on the transmission jack (specialty).

Step 10: Replace the module on the tank top (Path B)

  • Clean the pump area with shop towels.
  • Mark module orientation using a marker pen.
  • Remove the lock ring using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty), remove the module, and replace the O-ring seal using a pick tool set.
  • Install the new module, install a new lock ring, and tighten with the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) until fully seated/aligned to the stop marks.

Step 11: Reinstall the tank (Path B)

  • Raise the tank into position using the transmission jack (specialty).
  • Install the tank straps and start bolts by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench 10-100 Nm to the specification for your strap fasteners.
  • Reconnect fuel lines, EVAP lines, and electrical connectors; confirm each connection is fully locked.
  • Reinstall shields/undercovers using a socket set 8mm-18mm and Torx bit set T20-T30.
  • Lower the vehicle from jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).

✅ After Repair

  • Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using a socket set 8mm-18mm as needed for access.
  • Prime the system: key ON for 3 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3-4 times before cranking.
  • Start the engine and inspect for leaks at the pump area and quick-connect fittings with a bright light.
  • Use an OBD2 scan tool to clear any codes and re-check for returning faults.
  • Road test 10-15 minutes, then re-check for fuel smell/leaks.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.


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