How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Jeep Cherokee (In-Tank Repair Guide)
Step-by-step instructions for access panel or tank drop, with required tools, parts, safety tips, and post-install priming checks
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Jeep Cherokee (In-Tank Repair Guide)
Step-by-step instructions for access panel or tank drop, with required tools, parts, safety tips, and post-install priming checks


🔧 Cherokee - Fuel Pump Module Replacement
The fuel pump on your Cherokee is inside the fuel tank as part of a pump/sender “module.” Replacement involves safely depressurizing the fuel system, disconnecting fuel and electrical connections, and swapping the module with a new seal so it doesn’t leak fuel vapors.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
- ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, hot lights, or power tools that can arc near the open tank.
- ⚠️ Depressurize the fuel system before opening any fuel line.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging the pump wiring.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.
- ⚠️ If you must drop the tank, support it with a transmission jack; a fuel-filled tank is heavy.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Fuel-resistant gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- Trim removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- Pick tool set
- Needle-nose pliers
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- Socket set 8mm-18mm
- Torx bit set T20-T30
- Torque wrench 10-100 Nm
- Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
- Shop towels
- Drain pan
- Marker pen
- OBD2 scan tool
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Transmission jack (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel line quick-connect retainer clips - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
- If possible, drive until the tank is near 1/4 full to make the job safer and easier.
- Depressurize fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay, start the engine, and let it run until it stalls; crank 2 more seconds, then key OFF.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- Wipe/clean the area before opening the tank so dirt cannot fall inside.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure and power down
- Use an OBD2 scan tool to check for any stored fuel pressure/pump codes and save them for reference.
- Use a socket set 8mm-18mm to open the under-hood fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay.
- Start the engine and let it stall, then turn the key OFF.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Prevents sparks near fuel.
Step 2: Choose the correct access method
- Path A (Service access panel under rear seat): Continue to Step 3.
- Path B (No access panel): Skip to Step 9 to lower the fuel tank.
Step 3: Remove the rear seat cushion (Path A)
- Use a trim removal tool to release the front seat cushion retainers (pull upward at the front edge).
- If your cushion uses bolts, remove them with a socket set 8mm-18mm.
- Lift the cushion out and set it aside.
Step 4: Open the fuel pump service cover (Path A)
- Use a Phillips screwdriver or Torx bit set T20-T30 to remove the service cover fasteners.
- Peel back any sealer carefully using a pick tool set.
- Clean the area using shop towels so dirt can’t drop into the tank.
Step 5: Disconnect electrical connector and fuel lines (Path A)
- Unplug the pump electrical connector by releasing the lock tab using a pick tool set.
- Place a drain pan and shop towels under the connections.
- Disconnect the quick-connect fuel line(s) using a fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) (this tool releases the internal spring clip without breaking the fitting).
- Cap/cover the open lines with clean shop towels to reduce vapor and contamination.
Step 6: Mark orientation and remove the lock ring (Path A)
- Use a marker pen to mark the module position relative to the tank.
- Remove the lock ring using a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) (it grips the ring evenly so you don’t crack it).
- Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module (Path A)
- Carefully lift the module out while guiding the float arm and strainer past the tank opening.
- Have a drain pan ready; the module will drip fuel.
- Remove the old tank seal O-ring from the tank opening using a pick tool set.
Step 8: Install the new module and seal (Path A)
- Install the new O-ring seal into the tank groove using your hands and fuel-resistant gloves. Do not twist the seal.
- Lower the new module in, aligning your marks, and ensure the seal stays seated.
- Install a new lock ring and tighten using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) until fully seated/aligned to the stop marks.
- Reconnect fuel line(s) by pushing until they click; gently tug to confirm locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until the lock clicks.
- Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver or Torx bit set T20-T30.
- Reinstall the rear seat cushion (reverse removal). If bolts were removed, tighten with a torque wrench 10-100 Nm to the specification for your seat fasteners.
Step 9: Lower the fuel tank (Path B)
- Raise and support the vehicle: use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and place it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Support the tank with a transmission jack (specialty).
- Remove any shields/undercovers using a socket set 8mm-18mm and Torx bit set T20-T30.
- Disconnect the filler neck/EVAP connections as equipped using needle-nose pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Disconnect the pump electrical connector(s) using a pick tool set.
- Disconnect fuel lines using the fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty).
- Remove tank strap bolts using a socket set 8mm-18mm, then slowly lower the tank on the transmission jack (specialty).
Step 10: Replace the module on the tank top (Path B)
- Clean the pump area with shop towels.
- Mark module orientation using a marker pen.
- Remove the lock ring using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty), remove the module, and replace the O-ring seal using a pick tool set.
- Install the new module, install a new lock ring, and tighten with the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) until fully seated/aligned to the stop marks.
Step 11: Reinstall the tank (Path B)
- Raise the tank into position using the transmission jack (specialty).
- Install the tank straps and start bolts by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench 10-100 Nm to the specification for your strap fasteners.
- Reconnect fuel lines, EVAP lines, and electrical connectors; confirm each connection is fully locked.
- Reinstall shields/undercovers using a socket set 8mm-18mm and Torx bit set T20-T30.
- Lower the vehicle from jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using a socket set 8mm-18mm as needed for access.
- Prime the system: key ON for 3 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3-4 times before cranking.
- Start the engine and inspect for leaks at the pump area and quick-connect fittings with a bright light.
- Use an OBD2 scan tool to clear any codes and re-check for returning faults.
- Road test 10-15 minutes, then re-check for fuel smell/leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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