How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 INFINITI QX50 (In-Tank)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 78 Nm lock ring torque spec
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 INFINITI QX50 (In-Tank)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 78 Nm lock ring torque spec
🔧 QX50 - Fuel Pump Replacement
The fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank and supplies pressurized fuel to the engine. On your QX50, the pump is serviced as an in-tank fuel pump module, typically accessed from inside the vehicle under the rear seat area.
Assumption: Your QX50 has an interior service access cover for the pump module (common on this platform).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work in a well-ventilated area and keep all flames/sparks away (fuel vapors ignite easily).
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines to prevent fuel spray.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental sparks.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; have rags ready for spills.
- ⚠️ Do not use power tools near an open fuel tank opening.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension (3/8")
- Torque wrench (5–100 Nm range)
- Trim removal tool
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Flathead screwdriver (small)
- Fuel line disconnect pick set
- Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
- Shop rags
- Non-sparking plastic scraper
- Marker or paint pen
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
- Replacement fuel line retaining clips (if damaged) - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease (small packet) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open a window for ventilation.
- Run the fuel level down if possible; a fuller tank makes spills more likely.
- Gather a small container for any fuel drips and lay shop rags around the work area.
- Know this term: the lock ring tool is a wrench that turns the pump’s retaining ring without making sparks or damaging it.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Open the hood.
- Remove the fuel pump fuse (or fuel pump relay) from the fuse box using a small flathead screwdriver to help lift it if needed.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank the engine for 3–5 seconds one more time to release leftover pressure.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Remove the negative cable and position it so it can’t spring back onto the battery post.
Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover
- Move the front seats forward for space.
- Remove the rear seat bottom cushion using a trim removal tool (most cushions release from front clips with a firm upward pull).
- Locate the fuel pump service cover in the floor area.
- Remove the cover fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket (varies by cover style).
Step 4: Clean the area (very important)
- Use shop rags to wipe dirt away from the top of the pump module and the surrounding metal.
- Use a non-sparking plastic scraper to gently break loose any stuck dirt.
- Keep debris out of the tank.
Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector
- Press the connector tab and unplug it by hand.
- Add a tiny amount of dielectric grease to the seal during reassembly (it helps prevent moisture issues).
Step 6: Disconnect the fuel lines
- Place shop rags around the fittings to catch fuel.
- Release the quick-connect fitting using a fuel line disconnect pick set to lift the plastic locking tabs if they’re stubborn.
- Pull the line straight off (don’t twist aggressively).
- Cap/cover the open line ends with a clean rag to reduce fumes and dirt entry.
Step 7: Mark the pump module orientation
- Use a marker or paint pen to mark the relationship between the pump module top and the tank (alignment helps it seat correctly).
Step 8: Remove the lock ring
- Install the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) onto the retaining ring.
- Turn the lock ring counterclockwise to remove it.
- Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
Step 9: Remove the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module straight up.
- Angle it as needed to clear the float arm (the float is the fuel level sensor; it’s delicate).
- Have shop rags ready—fuel will drip from the module.
Step 10: Replace the tank seal (O-ring)
- Remove the old seal from the tank opening using a non-sparking plastic scraper.
- Install the new seal and make sure it sits flat with no twists.
Step 11: Install the new fuel pump module
- Lower the new module into the tank carefully, guiding the float arm in without bending it.
- Align the module using your paint-pen marks.
Step 12: Reinstall and torque the lock ring
- Install the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) to tighten it.
- Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lb).
Step 13: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical connector
- Push each fuel line on until you feel/hear a click.
- Gently tug-test the lines by hand to confirm they are locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 14: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket (match what you removed).
- Reinstall the rear seat bottom cushion by aligning the rear hooks and pushing down to snap the front clips in.
Step 15: Reinstall fuse/relay and reconnect battery
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
- Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
✅ After Repair
- Cycle the ignition to prime the system: key ON for 5 seconds, OFF for 5 seconds, repeat 3 times.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes.
- Inspect for leaks at the fuel line connections and around the lock ring area (sniff + visual check).
- If you smell strong fuel inside the cabin, shut off the engine and recheck the seal and line locks.
- Take a short test drive, then recheck for leaks again.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$850 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















