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2016 Ford Fusion
2016 Ford Fusion
SE - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Fuel Pump Module Assembly 2013-2020 Ford Fusion 2.0L L4

How to Replace Fuel Pump Module Assembly 2013-2020 Ford Fusion 2.0L L4

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Tools & Fluids

Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
Safety
Safety
Glasses
3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Ford Fusion (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety steps, access-panel vs tank-drop methods, and key torque specs

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Ford Fusion (Step-by-Step Guide)

Tools, parts, safety steps, access-panel vs tank-drop methods, and key torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Fusion - Fuel Pump Replacement

The fuel pump on your Fusion is part of the fuel pump module inside the fuel tank. The job is mainly about working safely around gasoline, relieving fuel pressure, then swapping the module (usually through an access panel under the rear seat; if your car doesn’t have an access panel, the tank must be lowered).

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-5.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, no hot lights, no power tools that spark near the open tank.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to prevent fuel spray.
  • ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and clean spills immediately.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before opening the tank.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 3/8" torque wrench (10–100 Nm range)
  • Trim removal tool set
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set
  • Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
  • Brass punch (specialty)
  • Small hammer
  • Shop towels
  • Drain pan (fuel-safe)
  • Work light (LED)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line retaining clips (if equipped) - Qty: 1 set
  • Dielectric grease (for electrical connector seals) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Run the fuel level as low as possible; a lighter tank is safer and easier.
  • Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Keep dirt out of the tank at all costs.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and remove the engine cover (pull upward by hand if equipped).
  • Locate the under-hood fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (use the fuse box diagram on the cover; remove using a trim removal tool or fuse puller if included in your kit).
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Crank for 3–5 seconds one more time to bleed off remaining pressure.
  • Turn ignition OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal and remove it from the battery post.
  • Position the cable so it cannot spring back onto the terminal.
  • Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 3: Access the pump (Path A: rear-seat access panel, if equipped)

  • Open both rear doors and remove the rear seat bottom cushion.
  • Use a trim removal tool to release the front clips, then lift the cushion out.
  • Locate the round/oval access cover over the tank area.
  • Remove access-cover fasteners with an 8mm socket (some covers use adhesive; gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver).

Step 4: Access the pump (Path B: no access panel — lower the fuel tank)

  • Raise the vehicle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Use a 13mm socket to remove any shields necessary to reach the tank straps.
  • Support the tank with the floor jack and a wide block of wood (spreads the load).
  • Disconnect electrical and fuel connections at the front of the tank using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (a disconnect tool releases the internal spring lock so the line can slide off).
  • Remove the tank strap bolts using a 13mm socket, then slowly lower the tank enough to access the pump module.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for tank strap bolts on reassembly.

Step 5: Clean the area before opening the tank

  • Use shop towels to wipe dust and debris off the top of the module and surrounding area.
  • Dirt in the tank can ruin the new pump.

Step 6: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

  • Unplug the pump electrical connector (press the lock tab; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if needed).
  • Place a drain pan (fuel-safe) and shop towels under the connections.
  • Disconnect the fuel line(s) using the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set, then cap/cover the line ends with clean towels.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

  • Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a 3/8" ratchet to rotate the lock ring counterclockwise.
  • If space prevents the lock-ring tool, use a brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the ring loose (brass is softer and reduces spark risk).
  • Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Carefully lift the module straight up.
  • Angle it as needed to clear the float arm (the float is the fuel level “bobber”).
  • Let fuel drain into the tank; use shop towels to catch drips.
  • Remove the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket) from the tank opening.

Step 9: Install the new seal and pump module

  • Install the new tank seal (O-ring/gasket) in the groove; ensure it sits flat and is not twisted.
  • Apply a very light film of clean fuel to the seal (do not use heavy grease).
  • Lower the new module into the tank, guiding the float arm carefully.
  • Align the module indexing marks/tabs with the tank so it seats fully.

Step 10: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

  • Install the lock ring and use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a 3/8" torque wrench to tighten.
  • Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
  • Reconnect the fuel line(s) until you feel/hear a solid click.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it locks.

Step 11: Reassemble (access panel or tank)

  • Access panel path: Reinstall the cover using an 8mm socket.
  • Access panel path: Reinstall the rear seat cushion (push down firmly to engage the clips).
  • Tank-lowering path: Raise the tank with the floor jack, install straps, and tighten strap bolts with a 13mm socket.
  • Tank-lowering path: Reinstall any shields using a 13mm socket.

Step 12: Restore fuel pump power and battery

  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay in the under-hood fuse box.
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • Cycle the key to prime the system: ignition ON for 5 seconds, OFF for 5 seconds, repeat 3 times (do not crank).
  • Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes.
  • Check carefully for leaks at the pump top and all fuel line connections.
  • If a check engine light appears, scan for codes and re-check connectors and line seating.
  • If you smell fuel, shut it off immediately.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-5.0 hours.


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