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2016 Dodge Durango
2016 Dodge Durango
SXT - V6 3.6L
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How to install# remove fuel pump# DODGE DURANGO 2016# FUEL PUMP Change open fuel tank#

How to install# remove fuel pump# DODGE DURANGO 2016# FUEL PUMP Change open fuel tank#

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Safety
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Glasses
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Nitrile
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3 Ton
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Dodge Durango (In-Tank Pump)

Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Dodge Durango (In-Tank Pump)

Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs

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Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ Durango - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Durango, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module (it also includes the fuel level sensor). The job is mostly about safely lowering the fuel tank, swapping the module and seal, then re-priming the system and checking for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—fuel vapors are extremely flammable.
  • āš ļø No smoking, sparks, heat guns, or incandescent drop lights near the vehicle.
  • āš ļø Relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel line to prevent fuel spray.
  • āš ļø Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental sparks.
  • āš ļø Support the fuel tank with a jack before removing straps—an un-supported tank can drop suddenly.
  • āš ļø Keep a class B fire extinguisher nearby.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Fire extinguisher class B
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Socket set (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm) with ratchet
  • Extensions (3" and 6")
  • Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
  • Flat trim tool
  • Fuel line disconnect tool set (3/8" and 5/16")
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Brass punch and small hammer
  • Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
  • Drain pan
  • Shop towels
  • Permanent marker

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2 (recommended if rusty)

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
  • Drive until the tank is as low as possible—less fuel makes the tank much lighter.
  • Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to release tank vapor pressure.
  • Plan your workspace: have a clean table ready for the new module and seal.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and remove the fuel pump relay/fuse from the under-hood fuse box (use your owner’s manual cover diagram).
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Crank 2–3 more seconds to release leftover pressure.
  • Turn the key OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Raise and support the rear

  • Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jack point.
  • Set the vehicle down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 4: Support the fuel tank

  • Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the fuel tank with a flat piece of wood on the jack pad to spread the load.
  • Jack up lightly until the tank is supported (not lifting the vehicle).

Step 5: Disconnect filler neck and vent connections (as needed)

  • Use hose clamp pliers to loosen the filler/vent hose clamps you can access.
  • Twist hoses gently to break them free—don’t pry hard on plastic nipples.
  • Tip: Mark hose positions with a marker.

Step 6: Remove the tank straps

  • Use a 15mm socket and ratchet with extensions to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
  • Lower the straps and keep the tank supported by the jack.
  • During reassembly: Torque tank strap bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Lower the tank slightly and disconnect lines/connectors

  • Lower the jack just enough to access the top/front of the tank.
  • Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector using a flat trim tool to release the lock tab (don’t break the clip).
  • Disconnect fuel lines using the fuel line disconnect tool set (3/8" and 5/16"). A disconnect tool slides into the fitting to release the internal spring clip.
  • Use a drain pan and shop towels to catch small fuel spills.

Step 8: Lower and remove the fuel tank

  • With all lines/hoses unplugged, slowly lower the tank fully using the floor jack.
  • Slide the tank out from under the vehicle.

Step 9: Clean the pump area before opening the tank

  • Wipe dirt away from the top of the module and lock ring using shop towels.
  • Tip: Dirt in the tank can ruin the new pump.

Step 10: Remove the lock ring and fuel pump module

  • Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) to turn the lock ring counterclockwise and remove it.
  • If you don’t have the tool: use a brass punch and small hammer carefully on the ring tabs (brass helps reduce spark risk).
  • Lift the module straight up and angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level arm).
  • Remove the old seal/O-ring from the tank opening.

Step 11: Install the new seal and module

  • Install the new fuel pump module tank seal/O-ring into the tank groove (make sure it lays flat and isn’t twisted).
  • Carefully lower the new module into the tank, watching the float arm so it doesn’t bend.
  • Install the lock ring and tighten using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty).
  • Torque lock ring to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the tank

  • Place the tank on the floor jack and raise it partway.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines (push until you feel/hear a solid click).
  • Reconnect filler/vent hoses using hose clamp pliers and ensure clamps are fully seated.
  • Raise the tank fully and reinstall straps using the 15mm socket.
  • Torque tank strap bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect battery and prime the system

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Turn key to ON (engine OFF) for 3 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds—repeat 3 times to prime the system.
  • Start the engine.

āœ… After Repair

  • With the engine running, inspect under the vehicle for leaks at the fuel line connections and tank seal area.
  • Shut the engine off and re-check for fuel smell or wet spots.
  • Test drive 10–15 minutes, then re-check for leaks again.
  • If the fuel gauge reads incorrectly, re-check the module seating and connector engagement.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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