How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Chevrolet Malibu (In-Tank)
Step-by-step replacement guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs) lock ring torque spec
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Chevrolet Malibu (In-Tank)
Step-by-step replacement guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs) lock ring torque spec


š§ Malibu - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Malibu, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank pump module. The job is mainly about safely relieving fuel pressure, accessing the top of the fuel tank (usually from inside the car under the rear seat), swapping the module, and checking carefully for leaks.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Assumption: Your Malibu has an in-cabin rear-seat access panel (common).
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated areaāfuel vapors ignite easily.
- ā ļø No smoking, no flames, no drop lights with hot bulbsāuse LED lighting.
- ā ļø Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to avoid spray.
- ā ļø Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the tank.
- ā ļø Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
- ā ļø Clean dirt off the pump areaādebris in the tank can damage the new pump.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- LED work light
- Trim removal tool set
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Socket set (metric)
- 7mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Extension (3/8")
- Torque wrench (3/8")
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8")
- Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
- Brass punch
- Hammer
- Shop towels
- Catch pan
- Vacuum cleaner
- Marker pen
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
- Butyl strip/sealant for access cover - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and use wheel chocks.
- Try to keep the fuel level low (under 1/4 tank) to reduce spills and fumes.
- Open the driver window (helps if doors lock after battery disconnect).
- Have a place to set the rear seat cushion and any trim without damaging it.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure
- Open the hood and locate the underhood fuse block (use your LED work light).
- Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (use trim removal tool to lift the cover if needed).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 2-3 more seconds to bleed off remaining pressure.
- Turn the key OFF.
- This reduces fuel spray when lines disconnect.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
- Move the cable aside so it canāt spring back to the terminal.
Step 3: Remove the rear seat cushion (access to pump area)
- From the rear passenger area, release the seat cushion (usually pull up sharply at the front edge near each outboard seating position).
- Use a trim removal tool as needed to avoid breaking clips.
- Lift the cushion out and set it aside.
Step 4: Open the fuel pump access cover
- Locate the round/oval access cover in the floor.
- Remove any retaining fasteners using a 7mm socket (some covers use butyl sealant instead of screws).
- Peel the cover up carefully with a trim removal tool. Save it for re-use.
Step 5: Clean the area before opening the tank
- Vacuum loose dirt using a vacuum cleaner.
- Wipe the top of the pump module clean with shop towels.
- Cleanliness here prevents tank contamination.
Step 6: Disconnect electrical connector and fuel lines
- Unplug the pump electrical connector.
- Place a catch pan and shop towels under the connections.
- Disconnect the fuel lines using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8").
- Quick-disconnect tool = a small sleeve that releases the internal retaining fingers.
Step 7: Remove the fuel pump lock ring
- Mark the module orientation with a marker pen (so the new one goes in the same way).
- Remove the lock ring using a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and ratchet (3/8").
- If needed, use a brass punch and hammer to help rotate the ring. (Brass is used because itās less likely to spark than steel.)
Step 8: Remove the pump module
- Lift the module straight up slowly, tilting as needed to clear the fuel level arm and strainer.
- Let fuel drain into the tank, then move the module to the catch pan.
- Remove the old tank seal/O-ring.
Step 9: Install the new seal and new pump module
- Install the new tank seal/O-ring in the tank opening (not on the module) and make sure it sits flat.
- Lower the new module into place, matching your alignment marks.
- Make sure the seal didnāt pinch or roll.
Step 10: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring
- Install the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading/misalignment.
- Tighten using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and torque wrench (3/8").
- Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)
Step 11: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical
- Reconnect the fuel lines until you hear/feel a solid āclick.ā
- Lightly tug-test each line to confirm itās locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector. Add a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal if desired.
Step 12: Seal the access cover and reinstall the rear seat
- Reinstall the access cover using butyl strip/sealant for access cover if the original seal was damaged.
- Reinstall any fasteners using a 7mm socket and ratchet (3/8") (snug them evenly).
- Reinstall the rear seat cushion by lining up the hooks/clips and pressing down firmly until it locks.
Step 13: Restore power and prime the fuel system
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8").
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay.
- Key ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds. Repeat 3 times to prime pressure.
ā After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
- Check carefully for fuel smell and any seepage around the lock ring and line connections.
- If it cranks longer than normal on the first start, repeat the key-on prime cycle once more.
- Test drive close to home first, then re-check for leaks.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















