🔧 Regal - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

On your Regal, the fuel pump is an in-tank module that supplies pressurized fuel to the direct-injection system. Replacement usually involves relieving fuel pressure, accessing the pump (often through a service cover under the rear seat), swapping the module and seal, then priming the system to check for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

Assumption: Your Regal has a rear-seat access cover to the pump; if not, the tank must be lowered (alternate steps included below).

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
• ⚠️ No smoking, no sparks, no incandescent work lights.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; fuel can spray when lines are opened.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the pump area.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Clean the area before opening the tank to prevent dirt from entering.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Fuel-resistant nitrile gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Torque wrench (10–100 Nm range)
• Trim removal tool set
• Flat-blade screwdriver (medium)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8")
• Brass punch and hammer
• Shop vacuum
• Shop towels
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal (tank O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1 (recommended)
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set (if damaged)

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• Run the fuel level down to about 1/4 tank if possible (less weight and less spill).
• Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to help relieve tank vapor pressure.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (-) battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

• Open the hood and locate the underhood fuse block.
• Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (labeled in the fuse box cover) using needle-nose pliers.
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls; crank for 2–3 seconds more to bleed off remaining pressure.
• Turn ignition OFF and remove the key.

Step 2: Access the fuel pump (rear seat service cover path)

• Remove the rear seat bottom cushion using a trim removal tool set (release the front clips, then lift out).
• Vacuum dirt around the access area using a shop vacuum.
• Remove the access cover fasteners using a ratchet (3/8") and appropriate socket (commonly 10mm socket).
• Lift the cover and set it aside on shop towels.

Step 3: Disconnect electrical connector and fuel lines

• Unplug the pump electrical connector by releasing the tab with a flat-blade screwdriver (medium).
• Place a drain pan and shop towels under the fuel line connections.
• Disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines using the fuel line disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8"). A fuel line disconnect tool is a small plastic/metal collar that slides into the fitting to release the internal spring.
• Cap/cover the open lines with clean towels to keep dirt out.

Step 4: Remove the lock ring

• Mark the orientation of the module to the tank with a flat-blade screwdriver (medium) (light scratch mark) so the new one goes in the same way.
• Use a brass punch and hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases. (Brass is used because it’s less likely to spark than steel.)
• Remove the lock ring and set it aside.

Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module

• Carefully lift the module straight up; tilt as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank, then move it to the drain pan.
• Remove the old seal (O-ring/gasket) from the tank opening using a trim removal tool (do not scratch the sealing surface).

Step 6: Install the new seal and new module

• Wipe the tank sealing surface clean with shop towels.
• Install the new seal onto the tank opening (make sure it sits flat and isn’t twisted).
• Lower the new pump module into the tank, keeping the float arm clear.
• Align the module to your orientation marks.

Step 7: Install and tighten the lock ring

• Install the lock ring and hand-seat it.
• Use a brass punch and hammer to tap it clockwise until fully seated.
• Torque to 60 Nm (44 ft-lbs) if you are using a lock-ring adapter with a torque wrench; otherwise, tighten to the fully-seated stop marks without over-driving the ring.

Step 8: Reconnect lines, connector, and reinstall cover/seat

• Reconnect fuel lines (push until they click), then gently tug to confirm locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
• Reinstall the access cover and fasteners using a ratchet (3/8").
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) for access cover fasteners (snug—do not strip).
• Reinstall the rear seat bottom cushion (press down firmly to re-engage clips).

Step 9: Alternate method if there is NO service cover (tank-lowering path)

• Raise and support the vehicle using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) on proper lift points.
• Support the fuel tank with the floor jack and a wide wood block (to spread load).
• Disconnect filler neck/vent hoses using pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver (medium).
• Disconnect electrical and fuel lines using the fuel line disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8").
• Remove tank straps using a ratchet (3/8") and appropriate socket, then lower the tank enough to access the pump.
• Swap the module using Steps 4–7, then reinstall the tank and straps.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for tank strap bolts unless otherwise marked on the vehicle hardware.

---

✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Prime the system: key ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3 times.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes.
• Inspect for leaks at the pump top and line connections (use a flashlight, not a hot bulb light).
• Test drive briefly, then re-check for fuel smell or seepage.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.