🔧 Cruze - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Cruze, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank “fuel pump module” that sits under the rear seat. The job is mostly about working safely around gasoline, relieving fuel pressure, and swapping the module and seal without damaging the tank opening.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Your Cruze uses the in-tank module accessed under the rear seat.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; no smoking, flames, or hot work lights.
• ⚠️ Gasoline is highly flammable; keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to prevent spray.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to reduce spark risk.
• ⚠️ Clean the area before opening the tank to keep dirt out.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• Trim removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Brass punch (non-sparking)
• Small hammer
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop towels
• Catch pan (shallow)
• Torque wrench (Nm/ft-lb capable)
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retainer clips - Qty: 1 set

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and keep doors open for ventilation.
• Have a shallow catch pan and towels ready; a small amount of fuel spill is normal.
• Plan to work with a low fuel level (under 1/4 tank) to make the module easier to lift out.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve the fuel pressure

• Open the hood and remove the engine cover if equipped (pull up by hand).
• Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay from the underhood fuse box (use the fuse-box diagram on the cover).
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls; crank for 2-3 seconds once more.
• Turn ignition OFF and remove the key.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Remove the rear seat cushion

• From the rear passenger area, release the lower seat cushion (usually two front release points).
• Use a trim removal tool as needed to pop the cushion free without tearing the fabric.
• Lift the cushion out and set it aside.

Step 4: Open the fuel pump access cover

• Locate the round/oval access cover on the floor under the seat.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver or trim removal tool to carefully lift the cover/sealant edge.
• Clean all dirt around the pump top using shop towels so debris doesn’t fall into the tank.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel line(s)

• Unplug the pump electrical connector (press the tab and pull straight off).
• Place a catch pan under the area and wrap fittings with shop towels.
• Disconnect the fuel line quick-connect using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (this tool slides into the fitting to release the internal spring).
• If a line uses a colored retainer clip, use needle-nose pliers to remove the clip first, then disconnect.

Step 6: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

• Mark the lock ring position with a paint marker (use a small mark so you can line it up on reassembly).
• Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a ratchet to turn the ring counterclockwise and remove it.
• If you don’t have the ring tool, use a brass punch (non-sparking) and small hammer to tap the ring counterclockwise in small steps. Go slow to avoid cracking plastic.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module

• Lift the module straight up carefully; angle it as needed to clear the float arm (the float measures fuel level).
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank for a few seconds, then move it to the catch pan.
• Remove the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket) from the tank opening using a flat-blade screwdriver gently.

Step 8: Install the new seal and new module

• Wipe the sealing surface clean with shop towels; do not let dirt fall into the tank.
• Install the new tank seal into the groove/opening (make sure it is fully seated and not twisted).
• Lower the new fuel pump module into the tank, guiding the float arm in gently.
• Align the module orientation tabs/marks to match the original position.

Step 9: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

• Install the lock ring and turn it clockwise by hand to start the threads/engagement.
• Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) to tighten until it aligns with your marks and is fully seated.
• If your replacement module includes instructions, follow those for final lock-ring tightness (many lock rings do not have a traditional torque spec).

Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical

• Reconnect the fuel line quick-connect until it clicks; tug lightly to confirm it’s locked.
• Reinstall any retainer clips using needle-nose pliers.
• Plug the electrical connector back in until it clicks.

Step 11: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat

• Reinstall the access cover (replace any butyl/sealant if it no longer sticks).
• Set the rear seat cushion in place and press down firmly to snap the front retainers back in.

Step 12: Restore power and prime the fuel system

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket; Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay.
• Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times to prime the system.
• Start the engine and let it idle while you check for leaks at the pump top and line connection.

---

✅ After Repair

• Check carefully for fuel smell and any wetness around the access cover area for the first day.
• If you have a check engine light after the repair, scan for codes; a loose connector or line can trigger EVAP/fuel pressure codes.
• Test drive for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.