How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2014-2020 Nissan Rogue (In-Tank Pump) (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step under-rear-seat access guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2014-2020 Nissan Rogue (In-Tank Pump) (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step under-rear-seat access guide with tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
đź”§ Rogue - Fuel Pump Module Replacement
Your Rogue’s fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank “fuel pump module” (pump + level sensor + strainer). On your Rogue, it’s typically serviced through an access panel under the rear seat, so you usually don’t need to drop the tank.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
Assumption: Your Rogue has the under-seat access cover (most do).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area—gas fumes are dangerous and flammable.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no flames, no heat guns, and avoid drop lights with hot bulbs.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks at the pump connector.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines to reduce spray.
- ⚠️ Keep a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids nearby.
- ⚠️ Clean dirt before opening the tank—dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (3/8" drive)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver (small)
- Pick tool (small)
- Fuel line disconnect tool set
- Needle-nose pliers
- Brass drift punch (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Torque wrench (5–30 Nm range)
- Shop towels
- Catch pan (fuel-safe)
- Hand vacuum
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump strainer (sock filter) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open a rear door for easy access.
- Use a hand vacuum to remove dust from the rear seat area and around the access cover.
- Relieve fuel pressure:
- Open the fuel filler door and loosen the gas cap to vent tank pressure.
- Open the hood and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (from the IPDM/fuse box), then start the engine and let it stall. Crank 2–3 seconds once more.
- This reduces fuel spray at the line.
- Disconnect the battery:
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop the front edge of the rear seat cushion up (it’s held by clips).
- Lift the cushion out and set it aside.
Step 2: Open the fuel pump access cover
- Locate the metal access cover on the floor.
- Remove fasteners using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet (some covers use sealant instead of bolts).
- If the cover is lightly stuck, carefully pry using a flathead screwdriver (small).
Step 3: Clean the area thoroughly
- Use a hand vacuum to remove all loose dirt around the pump flange.
- Wipe the top of the module with shop towels.
- Cleanliness here prevents tank contamination.
Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector
- Press the lock tab and unplug the connector by hand.
- If it’s stubborn, gently assist with a pick tool (small) (do not break the tab).
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel line(s)
- Place a catch pan (fuel-safe) and shop towels under the connection.
- Release the quick-connect fitting:
- Use a fuel line disconnect tool set if needed (this tool slides into the connector to release the internal fingers).
- Use needle-nose pliers only for removing external retainers if equipped—do not crush the plastic line.
- Expect a small amount of fuel—catch and wipe it immediately.
Step 6: Remove the lock ring
- The module is held by a large locking ring.
- Use a brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Brass reduces spark risk versus steel.
Step 7: Lift out the fuel pump module
- Slowly lift the module straight up.
- Angle it carefully as needed to clear the level float (the float is the small “bobber” arm for the fuel gauge).
- Let fuel drain into the tank for a few seconds, then move the module to the catch pan (fuel-safe).
Step 8: Replace the tank seal (O-ring)
- Remove the old seal from the tank opening by hand or with a pick tool (small).
- Install the new fuel pump module tank seal / O-ring fully seated and flat.
- A pinched seal can cause fuel smell and leaks.
Step 9: Install the new module and lock ring
- Transfer any required parts per your module instructions (some pumps include everything; some require swapping the strainer).
- Lower the new module into the tank carefully, guiding the float arm in without bending it.
- Align the module’s index marks/tabs with the tank marks.
- Install the lock ring and tap clockwise using the brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated/locked.
Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical
- Push the fuel line onto the fitting until it clicks.
- Lightly tug-test by hand to confirm it’s locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 11: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the access cover fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- If your cover uses bolts, tighten evenly: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
- Reinstall the rear seat cushion by aligning the rear hooks (if equipped), then push down firmly at the front to snap the clips in.
Step 12: Restore battery and fuel pump fuse/relay
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
âś… After Repair
- Prime the system:
- Turn ignition to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds.
- Repeat 3–4 times to build fuel pressure.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes.
- Check for leaks and fuel smell at the access area and fuel line connection.
- If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes (a loose connector or line can set EVAP/fuel pressure codes).
- Road test 10–15 minutes, then recheck for any seepage or odor.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $200-$600 (parts only)
You Save: $500-$600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Fuel Pump Module Assembly replace for these Nissan vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2020 Nissan Rogue | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2019 Nissan Rogue | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2018 Nissan Rogue | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2017 Nissan Rogue | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Nissan Rogue | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Nissan Rogue | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Nissan Rogue | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |


















