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2013 Toyota Highlander
2011 - 2013 Toyota Highlander
V6 3.5L
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Toyota Kluger/Highlander Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump replacement.(2012 to 2021)

Toyota Kluger/Highlander Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump replacement.(2012 to 2021)

Suggested Parts

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2011-2013 Toyota Highlander (In-Tank) (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step in-tank fuel pump replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and leak checks

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Module on a 2011-2013 Toyota Highlander (In-Tank) (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step in-tank fuel pump replacement with tools, parts list, safety tips, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Highlander, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacement typically involves relieving fuel pressure, accessing the pump from inside the vehicle (usually under the rear seat), disconnecting lines/wiring, then swapping the module and sealing it back up.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, no sparks, no drop lights with hot bulbs; use an LED work light.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid spray.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before opening the tank/pump area.
  • ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
  • ⚠️ Clean the area before opening the tank to keep dirt out (dirt can ruin the new pump).

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 3" extension
  • Torque wrench (3/8")
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Trim removal tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Plastic pick tool
  • Brass punch
  • Small hammer
  • Shop vacuum
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Fuel-safe drain pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • LED work light
  • OBD2 scan tool

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump tank seal / O-ring gasket - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to help release tank vapor pressure.
  • Relieve fuel pressure (steps below) before disconnecting any fuel line.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Less fuel in the tank makes this easier.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and remove the engine cover if equipped (pull upward by hand).
  • Locate the under-hood fuse/relay box and remove the fuel pump relay using needle-nose pliers.
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
  • Crank for 2–3 seconds one more time, then turn the key OFF.
  • Reinstall the fuel pump relay.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and tuck it aside.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

  • Move the front seats forward for space.
  • Remove the rear seat cushion as needed:
    • Use a trim removal tool to release front seat-cushion clips.
    • If bolts are present, remove them with a 12mm socket.
  • Find the round/oval service cover and remove fasteners with a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket (varies by cover style).

Step 4: Clean the area

  • Use a shop vacuum to remove loose dirt around the pump module top.
  • Spray brake cleaner spray on a shop towel and wipe the area clean.
  • Do not blow debris into the tank.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector(s)

  • Press the connector lock tab using a plastic pick tool, then unplug the connector by hand.

Step 6: Disconnect the fuel line(s)

  • Place shop towels under the connection and keep a fuel-safe drain pan nearby.
  • Release the quick-connect fitting:
    • Use a plastic pick tool to lift the safety lock (if equipped).
    • Squeeze the connector tabs by hand (or use needle-nose pliers gently) and pull the line straight off.
  • Cap the line end with a clean towel to keep dirt out.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump locking ring

  • Mark the locking ring and tank with a reference line using a marker (alignment reference).
  • Use a brass punch and small hammer to tap the locking ring counterclockwise until it releases.
  • Use brass to reduce spark risk.

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Lift the module straight up carefully; angle it as needed to clear the fuel level float.
  • Let fuel drain off the module into a fuel-safe drain pan.
  • Remove and discard the old tank seal / O-ring.

Step 9: Install the new seal and module

  • Install the new tank seal / O-ring gasket into the tank groove (make sure it sits flat).
  • Lower the new module into the tank carefully, guiding the float so it doesn’t bend.
  • Align the module’s index marks with the tank marks.

Step 10: Reinstall and tighten the locking ring

  • Thread the locking ring on by hand first.
  • Use the brass punch and small hammer to tap it clockwise until fully seated and aligned to your reference marks.
  • Torque: Use a torque wrench and tighten the locking ring to Toyota specification for your pump module style. (If you tell me whether you have a new complete module or just the pump motor, I’ll give the exact spec path.)

Step 11: Reconnect fuel line(s) and wiring

  • Push the fuel line on until it clicks, then pull back gently to confirm it’s locked.
  • Install any new fuel line retaining clips if your connector uses them.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 12: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat

  • Reinstall the service cover using the Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the rear seat cushion using a 12mm socket if bolts were removed.
  • Torque: Tighten seat bolts with a torque wrench to Toyota specification.

Step 13: Prime the fuel system and check for leaks

  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Turn ignition to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3 times to prime.
  • Start the engine and idle while you inspect the pump area for any fuel smell or wetness using an LED work light.

✅ After Repair

  • Clear any stored codes and check for new ones using an OBD2 scan tool.
  • Road test 10–15 minutes, then recheck for leaks and fuel odor.
  • If you get an EVAP code or fuel smell, stop and recheck the seal and line lock.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


Quick check (so I can make this 100% exact for your Highlander):

  • Do you have a complete fuel pump module (pump + sender), or just the pump motor?
  • When you lift the rear seat cushion, do you see a service access cover, or is there no cover (meaning the tank must be lowered)?

Guide for Fuel Pump Module Assembly replace for these Toyota vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2013 Toyota Highlander-V6 3.5L-
2012 Toyota Highlander-V6 3.5L-
2011 Toyota Highlander-V6 3.5L-
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