🔧 Traverse - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Traverse, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it typically requires lowering the fuel tank, swapping the module (with a new seal), then reinstalling everything and checking carefully for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: AWD Traverse has no interior service access; tank must be lowered.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
• ⚠️ No smoking, flames, hot work lights, or grinding/sparks anywhere near the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to prevent spray.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce fire risk.
• ⚠️ Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack; it’s heavy and awkward.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Transmission jack
• Socket set 8mm-18mm
• Ratchet
• Long extension set
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Brass punch set (specialty)
• Small hammer
• Shop towels
• Drain pan
• Permanent marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Drive until the tank is close to empty; a lighter tank is safer and easier to handle.
• Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to reduce vapor pressure.
• Have your transmission jack ready before loosening any tank straps.
• Know these terms once: a quick-disconnect tool releases the spring lock inside GM fuel line fittings; a brass punch is a non-sparking tool used to turn the pump lock ring safely.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Open the hood.
• Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood fuse/relay block (use the diagram on the fuse box cover).
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
• Crank the engine for 3 seconds to bleed off remaining pressure, then turn the key OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to disconnect the negative battery cable and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 3: Raise and support the vehicle

• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set it down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the correct lift points.

Step 4: Support the fuel tank

• Place a transmission jack under the fuel tank.
• Use a piece of wood on the jack pad if needed to keep the tank stable.

Step 5: Disconnect the filler neck and EVAP hoses

• At the fuel tank filler area, use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen hose clamps (if equipped) and slide hoses off.
• Use a trim clip removal tool for any plastic retainers so you don’t break them.
• Mark hose positions with a permanent marker to avoid mix-ups.

Step 6: Disconnect electrical connector(s) at the tank

• Locate the fuel pump module electrical connector near the top/front of the tank.
• Release the lock tab with a flat-blade screwdriver (gentle) and unplug it.

Step 7: Disconnect fuel supply/return lines

• Place a drain pan and shop towels under the connections.
• Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty) to separate the fuel lines.
• Tip: Pull the line straight; don’t twist hard.

Step 8: Remove tank shield(s) if equipped

• Use the appropriate socket set 8mm-18mm, ratchet, and long extension set to remove any shields/guards in the way.
• Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 9: Lower the fuel tank

• With the tank fully supported on the transmission jack, remove the tank strap bolts using a socket set 8mm-18mm and ratchet.
• Slowly lower the tank a few inches and re-check for any hoses/wires still connected.
• Lower the tank enough to access the fuel pump module lock ring.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for tank strap bolts during reinstall.

Step 10: Clean the area around the pump module

• Use shop towels to wipe dirt away from the top of the tank around the lock ring.
• This prevents debris from falling into the tank.

Step 11: Remove the lock ring and fuel pump module

• Use a brass punch set (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
• Lift the module straight up carefully; angle as needed to clear the float arm.
• Have shop towels ready for fuel drips.

Step 12: Replace the seal and install the new module

• Remove the old tank seal O-ring.
• Install the new fuel pump module tank seal O-ring (make sure it sits flat and isn’t twisted).
• Install the new module in the same orientation as the old one (match alignment marks).
• Reinstall the lock ring by tapping it clockwise with the brass punch set (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated/locked.

Step 13: Reinstall the fuel tank

• Raise the tank with the transmission jack.
• Reconnect fuel lines using the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty) as needed; tug lightly to confirm they’re locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector(s) by hand until the lock clicks.
• Reconnect EVAP and filler hoses using a flat-blade screwdriver and any retainers with a trim clip removal tool.
• Install the tank straps and bolts using the socket set 8mm-18mm, ratchet, and torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for tank strap bolts.

Step 14: Lower the vehicle and restore power

• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the fuel pump relay by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the key to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times to prime the system.
• Start the engine and let it idle while you inspect under the vehicle for leaks.
• If you smell fuel or see dampness, shut the engine off immediately and re-check line connections and the lock ring seating.
• Road test gently, then re-check for leaks again when you return.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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