🔧 Passport - Fuel Cap Replacement

Replacing the fuel cap on your Passport is simple: you remove the old cap and install a new one that seals correctly. A good seal prevents fuel vapor leaks that can trigger an EVAP leak check-engine light and fuel smell.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.1-0.2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work in a well-ventilated area away from sparks, cigarettes, or open flames.
• ⚠️ Do not top off the tank after the pump clicks off; it can damage the EVAP system.
• ⚠️ If the engine was just running, avoid contact with hot exhaust parts near the right rear area.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Clean shop towel

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel cap (OEM-style, tethered) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and shift to P.
• Turn the ignition OFF.
• Press the fuel door release (driver-side area) and open the fuel door.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the old fuel cap

• Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
• Turn the fuel cap counterclockwise by hand until it releases.
• Let the cap hang by the tether (the small strap that keeps the cap attached so it doesn’t get lost).

Step 2: Inspect and clean the sealing area

• Use a clean shop towel to wipe the filler neck sealing surface (the rim where the cap seals).
• Make sure there’s no dirt, sand, or damage on the rim.
• Clean seal prevents EVAP leak codes.

Step 3: Install the new fuel cap

• Place the new cap onto the filler neck and turn it clockwise by hand.
• Tighten until you feel it seat firmly; if your cap design clicks, tighten until it clicks.
• Torque: Not applicable (hand-tight only).

Step 4: Close the fuel door

• Confirm the tether isn’t pinched or twisted.
• Close the fuel door until it latches.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm there is no fuel smell around the fuel door area.
• If you were replacing it due to a check-engine light: the EVAP monitor may need a few normal drive cycles to rerun; the light may turn off after it passes.
• If the light stays on, the issue may be a different EVAP leak (hose, purge valve, vent valve), not the cap.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $60-$150 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $15-$45 (parts only)

You Save: $45-$105 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.2-0.4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.