🔧 Wheel Bearings - Front Hub/Bearing Replacement

On your Camry, the front wheel bearing is typically serviced as a complete hub and bearing assembly. That means the old unit is removed and a new sealed unit is bolted in, then the axle nut and suspension hardware are torqued back to spec.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a flat surface and support the car with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• The axle nut is very tight and may require a breaker bar or impact tool.
• Use care around the brake hose and ABS wire. Do not let the caliper hang by the hose.
• If your Camry has a steering angle or ABS warning after repair, a scan tool may be needed to clear codes.
• Disconnecting the battery is not usually required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Axle nut socket
• Ratchet
• Socket set
• Wrench set
• Trim clip tool
• Punch and hammer
• Penetrating oil
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel hub and bearing assembly - Qty: 1
• Axle nut - Qty: 1
• Front hub bolts - Qty: 3
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in Park, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the wheel lug nuts before lifting the car.
• If the wheel bearing is noisy, confirm the noise changes with steering load before starting.
• For this job, the axle nut must be replaced, not reused.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Use the 21mm lug socket and breaker bar to loosen the wheel lug nuts one turn.
• Raise the front of the car with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Support it with jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
• Remove the wheel.

Step 2: Remove the brake parts

• Use the correct socket set and ratchet to remove the caliper bolts.
• Hang the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Remove the brake rotor.
• Do not let the hose stretch.

Step 3: Remove the axle nut

• Use the axle nut socket and breaker bar to remove the axle nut.
• If needed, have a helper press the brake pedal while you loosen the nut.
• Remove and discard the old axle nut.

Step 4: Free the steering knuckle

• Use a wrench set and socket set to disconnect the lower ball joint or tie rod end as needed for access.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) if the taper is stuck.
• Turn the knuckle outward and slide the axle out of the hub.
• Support the axle so it does not overextend.

Step 5: Remove the hub and bearing assembly

• Use the socket set and ratchet to remove the three hub bolts from the back of the knuckle.
• Spray penetrating oil if the hub is stuck.
• Tap the hub out evenly with a punch and hammer.
• Clean the knuckle mating surface with brake cleaner.

Step 6: Install the new hub and bearing assembly

• Set the new hub in place by hand.
• Install the new hub bolts and tighten them evenly with a socket set.
• Torque to factory spec.
• Make sure the hub sits flush against the knuckle.

Step 7: Reassemble the suspension and brakes

• Slide the axle back through the new hub.
• Reconnect the lower ball joint or tie rod end using the wrench set and socket set.
• Reinstall the rotor and caliper.
• Install a new axle nut hand tight.

Step 8: Torque everything down

• Use the torque wrench to tighten the axle nut to 216 Nm (159 ft-lbs).
• Torque the wheel lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Torque the caliper and suspension fasteners to factory spec.
• If the axle nut is staked, stake it after torqueing with a punch and hammer.

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts with the 21mm lug socket.
• Lower the car and finish torquing the lug nuts in a star pattern with the torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and check for ABS, traction, or wheel speed warning lights.
• Spin the wheel by hand and listen for rubbing or roughness.
• Test drive at low speed first, then recheck torque on the lug nuts.
• If any warning lights stay on, scan for ABS codes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$640 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.