🔧 Front Wheel Bearing / Hub Assembly - Replacement

Assumption: This covers the front wheel bearing hub assembly on your Silverado. On this truck, the front bearing is a sealed unit and is replaced as an assembly.

The front hub bearing supports the wheel, ABS sensor tone ring, and steering load. When it gets noisy or loose, replacement is the correct fix. This job is straightforward, but the axle nut and hub bolts are usually tight.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground with the parking brake applied.
• Chock the rear wheels before lifting the front.
• Support the truck with jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
• The axle nut is very tight. Keep the wheel on the ground when loosening it if possible.
• Do not hang the brake caliper by the hose.
• If equipped with ABS, handle the wheel speed sensor wiring carefully.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• 30mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Ratchet
• Extensions
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Hammer
• Penetrating oil
• Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
• Hub puller or slide hammer (specialty)
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing hub assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Brake caliper bracket bolts - Qty: 2 if required by corrosion
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and turn the steering wheel straight.
• Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• Loosen the axle nut while the truck is still on the ground if possible.
• Raise the front and support it securely on jack stands.
• Remove the wheel.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the wheel and loosen the axle nut

• Use a breaker bar and 30mm socket to loosen the axle nut if it is still tight.
• Remove the wheel lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take off the wheel.
• Do not remove the axle nut fully yet.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper and bracket

• Use a 15mm socket to remove the caliper bolts.
• Lift the caliper off and hang it with a brake caliper hanger (specialty).
• Use an 18mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 3: Remove the rotor

• Slide the rotor off the hub.
• If it is stuck, tap it gently with a hammer and apply penetrating oil.
• Keep the rotor surface clean.

Step 4: Remove the axle nut and wheel speed sensor

• Use a 30mm socket to remove the axle nut.
• Remove the wheel speed sensor connector and wiring retainers carefully.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the sensor bolt if it blocks hub removal.

Step 5: Remove the hub bearing assembly

• Use a 15mm socket to remove the 3 hub mounting bolts from the back of the knuckle.
• Spray penetrating oil around the hub center.
• Remove the hub with a hub puller or slide hammer (specialty) if it is seized in the knuckle.
• Clean the knuckle bore with a wire brush.

Step 6: Install the new hub assembly

• Position the new hub in the knuckle.
• Install the 3 hub bolts by hand first.
• Tighten the hub bolts with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).
• Install the wheel speed sensor and wiring clips.

Step 7: Reassemble the brakes

• Install the rotor.
• Reinstall the caliper bracket with the 18mm socket.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the caliper with the 15mm socket.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Install the axle nut and wheel

• Install a new axle nut.
• Use the 30mm socket and torque wrench to tighten it.
• Torque to 300 Nm (221 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal before driving.
• Spin the wheel by hand to confirm it turns freely.
• Check that the ABS light is off.
• Road test at low speed and listen for noise.
• Recheck lug nut torque after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 per side (parts only)

You Save: $260-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours per side.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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