🔧 Struts - Front Strut Replacement

Assumption: this is for the front struts. Replacing front struts restores ride control, reduces clunks, and helps keep the tires planted. On your Explorer, the strut assembly is a major suspension component, so work carefully and keep the vehicle securely supported.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• The front suspension is under spring tension. Use a proper spring compressor if separating the strut from the spring.
• Do not touch the brake hose or ABS wire with tools.
• Mark the top mount orientation before removal so the new strut goes back in the same way.
• After reassembly, a wheel alignment is required.
• No battery disconnect is normally required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 13mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Penetrating oil
• Trim clip tool
• Paint marker
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Front stabilizer link hardware - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 2

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• If replacing both sides, do one side at a time to use the other side as a reference.
• If your replacement is a complete loaded strut assembly, you may not need the spring compressor.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the front of the vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the Explorer.
• Set the vehicle securely on jack stands under the proper frame support points.
• Remove the front wheel with a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the stabilizer link

• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the sway bar end link nut from the strut.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the correct wrench style if needed.
• Penetrating oil helps on rusty hardware.

Step 3: Remove brake hose and ABS wire brackets

• Use a 13mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to remove the brackets from the strut body.
• Set the hose and wire aside without stretching them.

Step 4: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Use an 18mm socket, breaker bar, and ratchet to remove the lower strut bolts.
• Support the knuckle as the bolts come out so it does not drop.
• Mark the relationship between the strut and knuckle with a paint marker.

Step 5: Remove the strut from the top mount

• Open the hood and locate the upper strut nuts.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the top mount nuts.
• Hold the strut assembly while removing the last nut so it does not fall.

Step 6: Transfer the spring and mount if needed

• If you bought a complete loaded strut, skip to Step 7.
• If reusing the spring, use a spring compressor (specialty) to compress the coil spring evenly.
• Remove the center nut with the correct socket from the new strut or old assembly as needed.
• Swap over the mount, spring, and isolators in the same order they came off.
• Torque to factory specification for the upper shaft nut and mount fasteners using a torque wrench.

Step 7: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the new strut in the tower and start the upper nuts by hand with a 13mm socket.
• Align the lower strut ears with the knuckle.
• Install the lower bolts with an 18mm socket.
• Torque to factory specification on the upper mount nuts and lower strut bolts using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Reinstall brackets and sway bar link

• Use the 13mm socket to reinstall the brake hose and ABS wire brackets.
• Use the 18mm socket to reinstall the stabilizer link nut.
• Torque to factory specification with a torque wrench.

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel with the 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque the lug nuts to factory specification in a star pattern with a torque wrench.

Step 10: Repeat on the other side

• Replace struts in pairs for balanced handling.
• Repeat the same process on the opposite side.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the vehicle and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Check that the brake hose and ABS wire are routed correctly.
• Drive slowly at first and confirm steering feels centered.
• Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short test drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.