🔧 Highlander - Front Strut Replacement

Replacing the front struts restores ride height, steering control, and braking stability when the originals are worn, leaking, or noisy. On your Highlander, the safest beginner-friendly method is to replace the complete strut assembly instead of compressing the coil spring.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the vehicle securely with jack stands before removing any suspension parts.
• The front coil spring is under high tension. Do not disassemble the strut with the spring unless you have a spring compressor.
• If your Highlander has a steering angle sensor or stability control lights afterward, a road test and alignment may be needed.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
• After strut replacement, a front-end alignment is strongly recommended.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug wrench
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Penetrating oil
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip tool
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front left strut assembly - Qty: 1
• Front right strut assembly - Qty: 1
• Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Replace struts in pairs on the same axle.
• Have a wheel alignment scheduled after the repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the vehicle

• Use a floor jack to raise the front of the Highlander at the approved lift point.
• Place jack stands under the front support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Remove the front wheels with a 21mm lug wrench.
• Never work under a vehicle on a jack alone.

Step 2: Remove the brake hose and wiring brackets from the strut

• Use a 12mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the ABS wire bracket bolt if equipped on that side.
• Move the hose and wiring aside without stretching them.

Step 3: Disconnect the stabilizer link from the strut

• Use a 17mm socket and a hex key or Torx bit as needed to hold the link stud while loosening the nut.
• Remove the stabilizer link nut and separate the link from the strut.
• Torque on reassembly: 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Mark the strut position

• Use a paint marker to mark the location of the strut-to-knuckle connection.
• This helps keep the alignment closer during reassembly, but you still need an alignment afterward.

Step 5: Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower strut bolts.
• Support the knuckle with one hand so the axle and brake hose are not pulled downward.
• Torque on reassembly: 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood and locate the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand as you remove the last nut so it does not drop.
• Torque on reassembly: 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove the old strut assembly

• Lower the strut out of the wheel well carefully.
• Compare the old and new strut to make sure the mounting points match.

Step 8: Install the new strut assembly

• Place the new strut into the tower and start the upper nuts by hand using a 14mm socket.
• Align the lower bracket with the knuckle and install the lower bolts by hand using a 19mm socket.
• Do not fully tighten anything yet.

Step 9: Reconnect the stabilizer link, brake hose, and wiring

• Use a 17mm socket to reinstall the stabilizer link nut.
• Use a 12mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the ABS wire bracket if removed.
• Torque the brake hose bracket to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 10: Tighten all fasteners to spec

• Use a torque wrench to tighten the lower strut bolts to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the upper mount nuts to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the stabilizer link nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts with a 21mm lug wrench.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) in a star pattern with a torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and listen for any rubbing or clunks.
• Start the engine and test drive at low speed first.
• Check that the ABS, traction control, and warning lights stay off.
• Schedule a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50-100 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$520 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$880 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.