🔧 Strut Assembly - Front Strut Replacement

This job replaces the complete front strut assembly on your Explorer. The new strut restores ride control, steering stability, and braking feel when the original unit is worn, leaking, or noisy. Assumption: front strut replacement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Use jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• The spring is under heavy load. Do not remove the top strut nut until the spring is fully compressed with a spring compressor.
• Keep hands clear of the spring path. A compressed spring can cause serious injury.
• If your Explorer has electronic parking brake functions active for service work, disable them before lifting if needed.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable if any sensor wiring must be unplugged near the strut area.
• Wear safety glasses and gloves throughout the job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 13mm socket
• Torx T30 screwdriver
• Ratchet
• Torque wrench
• Spring compressor (specialty)
• Trim tool
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Ball joint separator (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Front strut mount and bearing - Qty: 2
• Front strut top nut - Qty: 2
• Front stabilizer link nuts - Qty: 2
• New lower strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• Save radio settings if needed before disconnecting the battery.
• Plan for a wheel alignment after the repair. Front strut removal changes suspension angles.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen and lift the vehicle

• Use a 21mm socket or the correct lug socket to loosen the front wheel nuts one turn each.
• Raise the front of the Explorer with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Support it securely with jack stands (rated for vehicle weight).
• Remove the wheel.

Step 2: Open access to the strut area

• Use a trim tool to remove any clips or splash shield fasteners blocking access.
• Spray penetrating oil on the sway bar link and strut bolts if they look rusty.

Step 3: Disconnect the sway bar link from the strut

• Use a 15mm socket and a wrench on the stud if it spins.
• Remove the stabilizer link nut and move the link out of the way.
• Hold the stud steady to avoid rounding it.

Step 4: Remove any brackets attached to the strut

• Use a 10mm socket if your strut has a brake hose or ABS wire bracket attached.
• Remove the bracket fastener and free the line from the strut body.

Step 5: Mark the strut-to-knuckle position

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the strut and steering knuckle.
• This helps keep the alignment closer during reassembly.

Step 6: Separate the strut from the knuckle

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower strut bolts.
• Support the knuckle so the axle and brake hose are not strained.
• If the knuckle is stuck, gently spread the clamp only as needed.
• Do not pry against the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the strut from the body

• Open the hood and locate the upper strut mount nuts.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the top mount nuts.
• Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut.
• Lower the complete strut assembly out of the wheel well.

Step 8: Compress the spring and disassemble the strut

• Install the strut in a spring compressor (specialty).
• Compress the spring evenly on both sides until it is loose on the strut.
• Use a pass-through socket set or 21mm socket with an Allen or Torx hold tool if needed to remove the center nut.
• Remove the top mount, bearing, spring seat, and spring.
• Keep the spring pointed away from your body.

Step 9: Transfer parts to the new strut

• Install the spring, isolators, mount, and bearing onto the new strut in the same order.
• Align the spring ends exactly in the seats.
• Install a new top nut and tighten it with a torque wrench.
• Torque to factory specification for the strut shaft top nut.

Step 10: Install the strut assembly back into the vehicle

• Lift the assembled strut into place from the wheel well.
• Start the upper mount nuts by hand using a 13mm socket.
• Guide the lower strut body into the steering knuckle.
• Install the lower bolts with an 18mm socket.
• Torque the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts to factory specification.
• Torque the upper mount nuts to factory specification.

Step 11: Reattach brackets and sway bar link

• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any hose or wire brackets.
• Install the sway bar link with a 15mm socket.
• Torque the sway bar link nut to factory specification.

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench.
• Torque the lug nuts to factory specification in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked.
• Listen for clunks, squeaks, or spring noise.
• Test drive slowly first, then recheck for loose fasteners.
• Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible.
• If you replaced both sides, compare ride height and steering feel side to side.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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