🔧 Front Strut Assembly - Replacement

Assumption: This guide covers the front strut assemblies on your Explorer. The front suspension uses struts, while the rear uses different components.

Replacing the front strut assembly restores ride quality, steering stability, and braking control. On this model, it is usually best to replace struts in pairs so both sides match and the vehicle handles evenly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Use jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• The strut contains a coil spring under heavy pressure. Do not disassemble the spring with basic hand tools.
• If you are replacing the complete strut assembly, the spring compression step is usually not needed.
• Keep hands clear of the brake hose, ABS wire, and axle while moving the knuckle.
• After the job, the vehicle needs a wheel alignment.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm lug wrench or socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 24mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Bungee cord or wire hanger
• Flat screwdriver
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front strut assembly - Driver side Qty: 1
• Front strut assembly - Passenger side Qty: 1
• Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front stabilizer bar link nut hardware - Qty: 2
• Wheel alignment - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Put the transmission in Park and chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before raising the vehicle.
• If your strut assembly has an electronic connector attached, disconnect it before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front of the Explorer

• Use a floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle at the proper lift point.
• Support it securely with jack stands under the frame.
• Remove the wheel with a 21mm lug wrench or socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the brake hose and sensor brackets

• Use a 15mm socket or flat screwdriver to remove any brake hose or ABS wire brackets attached to the strut.
• Move the hose and wire out of the way. Do not let them hang by tension.

Step 3: Remove the stabilizer link from the strut

• Use an 18mm socket and a 21mm socket to remove the sway bar link nut from the strut tab.
• If the stud spins, hold it with the correct wrench size while loosening the nut.

Step 4: Separate the strut from the steering knuckle

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Mark the position with a paint marker if needed for reference.
• Support the knuckle with a bungee cord or wire hanger so the axle and brake hose are not strained.

Step 5: Remove the upper strut mount nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a 15mm socket to remove the upper strut mount nuts.
• Hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut.

Step 6: Remove the old strut assembly

• Carefully guide the strut out through the wheel well.
• Compare the old and new strut assemblies before installation.

Step 7: Install the new strut assembly

• Position the new strut in the wheel well and start the upper mount nuts by hand.
• Install the lower strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 21mm socket.
• Install the sway bar link back into the strut tab using the correct socket sizes.
• Reattach the brake hose and ABS wire brackets with a 15mm socket or flat screwdriver.

Step 8: Torque all fasteners

• Upper strut mount nuts: Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs)
• Lower strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs)
• Sway bar link nut: Torque to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs)
• Brake hose and sensor bracket fasteners: Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench.
• Wheel lug nuts: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks or rubbing.
• Check that the steering wheel is centered and the vehicle tracks straight.
• Schedule a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.