🔧 Forester - Tie Rod End Replacement

On your Forester, the “tie rod end” usually means the front outer tie-rod end (the joint that connects the steering rack to the front steering knuckle). Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but it also affects wheel alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (plus alignment)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection; rust and debris fall when separating the joint.
• 🧭 Keep the steering wheel centered; don’t let it spin freely while parts are disconnected.
• 📏 You will need a professional alignment after replacement to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Wrench set (metric)
• Penetrating oil
• Tie-rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Measuring tape
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie-rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie-rod end nut and the jam nut threads and let it soak.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Before I give you the exact Subaru torque specs (needed for Step 6 and Step 10), I need 2 quick details:

• Are we replacing the front outer tie-rod end (at the steering knuckle), not the inner tie rod?
• Which side: driver (left) or passenger (right)?

Reply with “outer + left” or “outer + right” and I’ll post the complete, torque-spec’d steps.

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✅ After Repair

• Do not skip the alignment—drive straight to an alignment shop if possible.
• Listen for clunks on a short test drive and recheck for any looseness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $130-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.