🔧 Fusion - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, letting the wheels turn while keeping alignment steady. Replacing a worn tie rod end restores tight steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

Assumption: replacing one front outer tie rod end.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Fusion with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear while separating the tie rod taper from the knuckle (it can “pop” loose suddenly).
• 🛑 Do not turn the steering wheel while the tie rod end is disconnected.
• 🛑 An alignment is recommended after this repair to prevent tire wear.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• 18mm deep socket
• 21mm open-end wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the car (about 1/2 turn).
• 🧰 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the tie rod end stud nut and let it soak for a few minutes.
• 🧰 Know your “tie rod puller”: it’s a small press tool that pushes the stud out of the knuckle without hammering.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front corner you’re working on.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and keep the floor jack lightly supporting as a backup.

Step 2: Remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 3: Mark the current tie rod end position

• Use a wire brush to clean the threads at the jam nut area.
• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end position relative to the inner tie rod threads.
• This helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin (if equipped)

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin ends.
• Use diagonal cutters and needle-nose pliers to pull the cotter pin out.
• If it breaks, remove all pieces before continuing.

Step 5: Loosen (do not remove) the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end and use a 21mm open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut about 1/2 to 1 turn.
• Do not spin the tie rod end yet.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end stud nut

• Use an 18mm deep socket to remove the nut from the tie rod end stud at the steering knuckle.
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure on the tie rod end while loosening, and keep the 18mm deep socket straight.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) on the knuckle and tie rod stud.
• Tighten the puller until the taper pops free from the knuckle.

Step 8: Unscrew and count turns

• Spin the old tie rod end off by hand while counting the turns (example: 17 turns).
• Write the number down; you’ll install the new one with the same number of turns.

Step 9: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Align the stud with the steering knuckle hole.

Step 10: Tighten the tie rod end nut and install a new cotter pin

• Use an 18mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the stud nut: Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• If the nut is castellated, tighten slightly more only as needed to align the cotter pin hole (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends using needle-nose pliers.

Step 11: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end and use a 21mm open-end wrench plus a torque wrench to tighten the jam nut: Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Install the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and listen for clunks or binding.
• 🧪 Road test at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is reasonably centered.
• 🧪 Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (recommended anytime a tie rod end is replaced).
• 🧪 Recheck for looseness and visually confirm the cotter pin is secure after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + basic alignment)

DIY Cost: $30-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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