🔧 Flex - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the wheel knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause clunks, loose steering, or uneven tire wear. The key is to keep the new part installed at the same length as the old one so you can safely drive to an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: replacing one front outer tie rod end; left/right are similar.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Flex on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when separating the tie rod end; it can “pop” free suddenly.
• ⚠️ After replacement, get a front wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Open-end wrench set (18mm, 21mm)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end nut (new, typically included) - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (only if your design uses one) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and threads; let it soak a few minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end position against the threads/jam nut so you can reinstall close to the same toe setting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front corner

• Lift the front at the proper jacking point using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Measure and mark the existing tie rod end position

• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point (example: center of the tie rod stud) to the tie rod end housing; write it down.
• Use a paint marker to add a clear reference line across the jam nut and the inner tie rod threads.
• This helps you drive to alignment safely.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Clean exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Hold the tie rod end with an 18mm open-end wrench (if needed to keep it from turning).
• Loosen the jam nut using a 21mm open-end wrench by turning it counterclockwise.
• Back the jam nut off a few turns, but leave it on the inner tie rod for now.

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end nut from the knuckle

• If your setup has a cotter pin, remove it with needle-nose pliers (a cotter pin is a small metal “pin” that locks a nut in place).
• Remove the tie rod end stud nut using an 18mm open-end wrench (size can vary slightly by brand of replacement).

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) onto the joint and tighten until the stud pops free.
• Once separated, lift the tie rod end stud out of the knuckle by hand.
• A puller avoids damaging the boot.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end from the inner tie rod

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting each full turn as you remove it (example: “18 turns”).
• Note the exact number of turns; you’ll use the same count for installation.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end to the same position

• Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up your paint mark and/or confirm your earlier measurement using the tape measure.
• Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckle by hand.

Step 8: Torque the tie rod end nut and tighten the jam nut

• Tighten the tie rod end stud nut using an 18mm open-end wrench and finish with a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
• If your design uses a cotter pin and castellated nut, install a new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers after torquing (never reuse the old cotter pin).
• Hold the tie rod end flats with an 18mm open-end wrench and tighten the jam nut with a 21mm open-end wrench: Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the Flex off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the Flex and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked; listen for any clunks or binding.
• Road test at low speed first; verify the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Schedule a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (required any time a tie rod end is replaced).
• Recheck for looseness or abnormal noise after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.