How to Replace the Front Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013 Mazda CX-5
Step-by-step removal and install instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and alignment notes
How to Replace the Front Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013 Mazda CX-5
Step-by-step removal and install instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and alignment notes


🔧 CX-5 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack (through the inner tie rod) to the steering knuckle. Replacing it fixes looseness/clunking and restores safe steering, but it will change toe (alignment) if not set carefully.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (plus alignment)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the CX-5 on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ After replacement, get a professional alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear and poor handling.
- ⚠️ If you use a hammer near the knuckle, protect threads and wear eye protection.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
- Combination wrench set (14mm–22mm)
- Pliers
- Paint marker
- Tape measure (metric or inch)
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Cotter pin puller (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
- Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
- Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud/nut at the knuckle; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Get the wheel off and access the tie rod end
- Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.
Step 2: Mark your “baseline” alignment
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the outer tie rod end.
- Measure from a fixed point (for example, the end of the inner tie rod threads to the outer tie rod end housing) using a tape measure, and write it down.
- This helps you drive to the alignment shop.
Step 3: Loosen the jam nut
- Hold the inner tie rod with an appropriately sized combination wrench.
- Turn the jam nut counterclockwise using an appropriately sized combination wrench to break it loose (do not move it far yet).
Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and the tie rod end nut
- Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers or a cotter pin puller (specialty).
- Remove the tie rod end nut with an appropriately sized socket or combination wrench.
Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free from the knuckle.
- If it’s stubborn, apply more penetrating oil and use the puller again.
- Puller is safest for the rubber boot.
Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)
- Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
- Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it, and write the number down.
Step 7: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new outer tie rod end on by the same number of turns you counted, until it seats close to your paint mark/measurement.
- Apply a small amount of thread locker (medium strength) to the jam nut threads if your replacement instructions call for it (many do not; follow the part’s guidance).
Step 8: Attach the stud to the knuckle and torque fasteners
- Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new nut and tighten with a torque wrench to the Mazda specification for your CX-5. Torque to OEM spec.
- Install a new cotter pin using pliers after aligning the nut’s castellations (never loosen the nut to align; tighten slightly to align).
Step 9: Tighten the jam nut
- Hold the inner tie rod with a combination wrench.
- Tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end using a torque wrench (or wrench if access is limited) to Mazda specification. Torque to OEM spec.
Step 10: Reinstall the wheel
- Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
- Lower the CX-5 off the stands using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench. Torque to OEM spec.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
- Test-drive slowly and listen for clunks; steering should feel stable.
- Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can).
- Recheck for looseness and re-inspect the cotter pin after the test drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only, alignment extra)
You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
❓Quick details so I can give you the exact Mazda torque specs
- Which side are you doing: left (driver) or right (passenger)?
- Are you replacing the outer tie rod end only (the joint at the knuckle), not the inner tie rod?

















