🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement

Assumption: This procedure is for the front outer tie rod end on your Accord. If you meant the inner tie rod, the job is different.

The tie rod end connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and keeps your steering pointed straight. If it is worn, you may hear clunks, feel loose steering, or see uneven tire wear. This repair should always be followed by a wheel alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels before lifting the front end.
• Support the car with jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
• Keep the steering wheel centered while the tie rod is disconnected.
• Do not drive the car after this repair until the alignment is checked.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 19mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Side cutters
• Hammer
• Paint marker
• Needle-nose pliers
• Safety glasses
• Gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Grease - Qty: 1 tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• Center the steering wheel and keep it locked in place if possible.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting the car.
• Raise the front and support it securely on jack stands.
• Count the exposed threads or mark the old tie rod position with a paint marker. This helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to the shop.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheel

• Use a lug wrench or 19mm socket to loosen the lug nuts.
• Lift the car with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 2: Mark the old tie rod position

• Use a paint marker to mark the location of the jam nut on the inner tie rod.
• Count the threads showing between the tie rod end and jam nut.
• This helps preserve toe setting for the drive to alignment.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten and pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod stud.
• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the castle nut.
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure on the knuckle with a floor jack or use a wrench on the stud’s internal feature if equipped.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Use a tie rod end puller or ball joint separator to pop the stud loose from the knuckle.
• If needed, tap the knuckle with a hammer to help release the taper.
• Do not strike the stud threads directly.

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end

• Use a 17mm wrench to loosen the jam nut.
• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting the turns as you remove it.
• Match the same number of turns when installing the new part.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Reinstall the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new castle nut using a 21mm socket and tighten to 49 N·m (36 ft-lbs).
• Continue tightening only enough to align the cotter pin hole if needed; do not loosen to fit the pin.

Step 7: Secure the cotter pin and jam nut

• Install a new cotter pin with needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.
• Hold the tie rod end with a 17mm wrench and tighten the jam nut to 49 N·m (36 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the car to the ground and torque the lug nuts to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs) in a star pattern with a torque wrench.

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✅ After Repair

• Check that the steering turns smoothly from lock to lock.
• Inspect the tie rod end boot and cotter pin installation.
• Drive slowly and listen for clunks or popping.
• Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• If the steering wheel is off-center, the toe needs adjustment.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side (parts only)

You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.