Assumption: This covers the front lower ball joints on your Explorer, which are typically serviced with the front lower control arm assembly.

🔧 Ball Joint - Replacement

The front lower ball joint on this vehicle is usually not sold as a separate easy bolt-in part. In most cases, you replace the entire front lower control arm assembly, then transfer or reinstall related hardware as needed. This is a suspension job, so careful support of the vehicle and correct torque are very important.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the vehicle securely with jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• The suspension will be loaded and can shift suddenly when fasteners are removed.
• Use a spring-safe posture and keep hands clear of pinch points around the knuckle and control arm.
• Do not tighten final suspension fasteners with the wheel hanging; final torque must be set at normal ride height.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar
• 21mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Torque wrench
• Ratchet
• Rust penetrant
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set
• Front stabilizer link nuts, if damaged - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
• Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands.
• Remove the front wheel for access.
• Mark bolt positions before removal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheel

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen and remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 2: Free the suspension for access

• Spray rust penetrant on the lower control arm fasteners, tie-rod area, and knuckle connection points.
• If the sway bar link blocks access, use an 18mm socket to disconnect it from the knuckle or control arm as needed.
• Use a 15mm socket if brake hose or ABS line brackets need to be moved for clearance.

Step 3: Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle

• Support the knuckle with a jack or stand to prevent strain on the axle and brake hose.
• Use the appropriate socket and ratchet to remove the lower ball joint fastener at the knuckle, if equipped with a clamp-style connection.
• If the joint is tight, use a ball joint separator (specialty) to release the taper.
• Do not hammer the threads directly.

Step 4: Remove the front lower control arm

• Use the 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the front and rear lower control arm bolts.
• Lower the arm carefully and remove it from the vehicle.
• Compare the new arm to the old one before installation.

Step 5: Install the new lower control arm

• Position the new control arm in place by hand first.
• Start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.

Step 6: Reconnect the knuckle and related parts

• Reconnect the lower ball joint to the knuckle and install the fastener.
• Reinstall the sway bar link and any brackets removed earlier.
• Make sure the axle, brake hose, and ABS wiring are not twisted or pinched.

Step 7: Torque the suspension at ride height

• Raise the control arm so the suspension sits near normal ride height.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the lower control arm bolts to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) for the main arm fasteners, unless your replacement part instructions specify a different value.
• Tighten the lower ball joint and related fasteners to the torque listed on the new part instructions or service data if included with the assembly.
• Final torque at ride height prevents bushing damage.

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary to check for binding.
• Drive slowly and listen for clunks, pops, or rubbing.
• Have a front-end alignment performed right away.
• Recheck all fasteners after the first road test.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.