🔧 Engine Mounts - Replacement

The Highlander’s engine mounts hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. If one is torn or collapsed, you can get clunks, excess vibration, or a rocking engine under load. This job requires supporting the engine while each mount is removed, so take your time and only replace one mount at a time if you can.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-8 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang on a jack alone.
• Use a wood block between the jack and engine to prevent damage.
• Keep hands clear while raising or lowering the engine.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting if you’ll be working near the starter, wiring, or engine harnesses.
• Work on a cool engine only.
• Use jack stands if the vehicle must be raised.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wood block
• Ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Socket extension set
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Trim clip tool
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount - Qty: 1 per mount being replaced
• Mount-to-engine bolts - Qty: 1 set if required
• Mount-to-frame bolts - Qty: 1 set if required
• Exhaust heat shield fasteners - Qty: 1 set if removed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool completely.
• If replacing more than one mount, do them one at a time.
• Raise the vehicle only if needed for lower mount access.
• Support the engine with a floor jack and wood block before loosening mount bolts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the mount area

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove any plastic engine covers or undercovers blocking access.
• If needed, remove the intake ducting with a flat trim tool and ratchet.
• Label bolts as you remove them.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place a floor jack under the engine with a wood block between the jack and the oil pan area.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the engine’s weight.
• Do not lift the engine high. Just remove the load from the mount.

Step 3: Remove the mount fasteners

• Use the correct 12mm socket, 14mm socket, or 17mm socket depending on the mount location.
• Remove the mount-to-body bolts first, then the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• If the bolts are tight, use a breaker bar.
• Keep slight pressure on the jack so the engine does not shift.

Step 4: Remove the old mount

• Work the mount out by hand once the bolts are removed.
• If the mount is stuck, raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to create clearance.
• Inspect the bracket surfaces for cracks or torn rubber.

Step 5: Install the new mount

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first using a ratchet with the proper socket.
• Do not fully tighten bolts yet if the engine needs to be moved to line up the holes.
• Hand-start every bolt first.

Step 6: Tighten and torque the mount

• Lower or raise the engine slightly with the floor jack until the mount sits naturally without strain.
• Tighten the mount bolts with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs) for most mount-to-body fasteners on this platform, and torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs) where a larger bracket bolt is used.
• If your removed bolts had factory threadlocker, replace them with new bolts if the service position calls for it.

Step 7: Reassemble removed components

• Reinstall any intake tubes, covers, heat shields, or splash shields with the ratchet and correct socket.
• Use the 10mm socket for most covers and the 12mm socket for brackets.
• Make sure nothing is pinched near the mount area.

Step 8: Final check

• Remove the jack from under the engine.
• Start the engine and watch for excessive movement.
• Shift from Park to Reverse and Drive with your foot on the brake to check for clunks or vibration.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive at low speed and listen for any new noises.
• Recheck all mount bolts after the first drive if access allows.
• If vibration remains, inspect the other mounts and the transmission mount.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $530-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.