🔧 Cruze - Electric Power Steering Gear Replacement

Your Cruze Eco uses electric power steering (EPS), so it does not have a hydraulic power steering pump or fluid to replace. If you’ve been told “pump,” the repair is usually replacing the EPS steering gear (rack) assembly or fixing power/ground/coding issues that cause loss of assist.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

Assumption: You’re replacing the complete EPS steering rack (most common “pump” mislabel).

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 10 minutes before steering column work (airbag system safety).
• ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered and locked; do not let it spin with the rack disconnected (prevents clock spring damage—this is the ribbon cable for the airbag/steering controls).
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ The steering gear is heavy/awkward—have a helper ready when lowering/removing it.
• ⚠️ Plan on a professional alignment after installation.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 1/2" (50–250 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set metric 8mm–21mm (3/8" drive)
• Socket set metric 13mm–24mm (1/2" drive)
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Ratchet 1/2"
• Extensions 3/8" (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter 3/8"
• Combination wrench set metric 10mm–21mm
• Torx bit set (E-Torx and T-Torx)
• Pry bar 18"
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Tie-rod end puller (specialty)
• Scan tool with EPS/SAS functions (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Electric power steering gear (EPS rack) assembly - Qty: 1
• Intermediate steering shaft pinch bolt - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end cotter pins - Qty: 2
• Front subframe bolts - Qty: 1 set
• Threadlocker (medium strength) - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Center the steering wheel, then use a seat belt looped through the wheel to hold it straight.
• Disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket on the negative terminal, and wait 10 minutes.
• Loosen front wheel lug nuts slightly with a breaker bar before lifting.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at proper lift points.
• Remove both front wheels using a socket set metric 17mm–21mm (lug size varies by wheel).

Step 2: Remove underbody panels for access

• Remove the lower splash shield/undertray fasteners using a socket set metric 8mm–10mm and Torx bit set.
• Set all clips/screws aside in a small tray. Group fasteners by panel location.

Step 3: Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles

• Remove the tie-rod end cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie-rod end nut using a socket set metric 18mm–21mm.
• Separate the joint using a tie-rod end puller (specialty) (a puller pushes the stud out without hammer damage).
• Count the exposed threads or measure the tie rod length with a ruler, and mark it with a paint marker to help keep alignment close.

Step 4: Disconnect the intermediate steering shaft from the rack

• Locate the intermediate shaft pinch joint where it clamps to the rack input.
• Mark the relationship between the shaft and rack input using a paint marker.
• Remove the pinch bolt using a socket set metric 11mm–13mm (varies by build) and ratchet.
• Slide the shaft off the rack input using a pry bar 18" gently if needed.
• Do not rotate the steering wheel once disconnected.

Step 5: Disconnect electrical connectors on the EPS rack

• Unplug the EPS electrical connector(s) by releasing the lock tab using a small pick from a Torx bit set kit (or a small flat blade if included).
• Inspect for corrosion or backed-out pins; clean only if needed.

Step 6: Support the subframe and prepare for clearance

• Place the floor jack under the front subframe with a block of wood to spread load.
• Loosen (do not fully remove) subframe bolts using a breaker bar 1/2" and socket set metric 18mm–21mm.
• If needed for rack removal clearance, lower the subframe slightly in a controlled way.

Step 7: Remove the steering rack mounting bolts and extract the rack

• Remove the rack mounting bolts using the appropriate socket set metric 15mm–21mm and extensions 3/8".
• Support the rack with one hand while removing the last bolt.
• Work the rack out through the opening (often out the driver-side or rearward path) using a pry bar 18" for gentle positioning.

Step 8: Transfer any required parts to the new rack

• If your replacement rack does not include inner/outer tie rods, transfer them using a combination wrench set metric and torque wrench.
• Use threadlocker (medium strength) where specified by the rack manufacturer.
• Match the old rack’s overall tie-rod length.

Step 9: Install the new EPS rack

• Position the new rack into place by hand.
• Install rack mounting bolts finger-tight first, then tighten using a ratchet.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification (refer OEM service information).

Step 10: Reconnect intermediate steering shaft (critical alignment step)

• Make sure the rack is centered (equal turns lock-to-lock, then half back) before connecting.
• Slide the shaft onto the rack input matching your paint marker marks.
• Install a new intermediate steering shaft pinch bolt using a socket set metric.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification (refer OEM service information).

Step 11: Reconnect EPS electrical connectors

• Plug in the connector(s) until the lock clicks.
• Verify the harness is clipped away from exhaust/rotating parts.

Step 12: Reattach tie rod ends to knuckles

• Install the tie-rod studs into the knuckles by hand.
• Tighten the nuts using a socket set metric and torque wrench: Torque to factory specification (refer OEM service information).
• Install new cotter pins using needle-nose pliers.

Step 13: Raise subframe back into position and tighten

• Use the floor jack to lift the subframe back into place.
• Tighten subframe bolts using a breaker bar, then final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification (refer OEM service information).

Step 14: Reinstall undertrays and wheels

• Reinstall splash shields using a socket set metric 8mm–10mm and Torx bit set.
• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a socket set metric 17mm–21mm.
• Lower the car and final-torque lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification (refer OEM service information).

Step 15: Restore power and perform required calibrations

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Use a scan tool with EPS/SAS functions (specialty) to run steering-related calibrations (commonly Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) Centering and EPS learn procedures).
• Clear any EPS/ABS codes, then re-check for returning faults.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the steering assist works and no EPS warning light stays on.
• With the car stationary, turn lock-to-lock slowly and listen for clunks or binding.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm the wheel returns to center normally.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can).
• Re-scan for codes after the road test.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $500-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $700-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-10 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.