🔧 Focus - Electric Power Steering Gear Replacement

Your Focus uses Electric Power-Assisted Steering (EPAS), so it does not have a hydraulic power steering pump or fluid to replace. If you’re having “power steering” problems, the common serviceable unit is the electric steering gear (rack) with the control module/motor.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Assumption: You meant EPAS steering gear replacement (no pump exists).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging EPAS connectors.
• 🛞 Support the car with jack stands on solid points; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧭 Keep the steering wheel centered and restrained (use the seat belt) so the clockspring (airbag ribbon) isn’t damaged.
• 🔥 Let the exhaust and catalytic converter cool before working underneath.
• 📏 An alignment is required after this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-250 Nm range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (5-80 Nm range)
• Socket set metric 8mm-21mm
• Wrench set metric 8mm-21mm
• Torx bit set (T25-T50)
• Pry bar
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie-rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Scan tool with Ford EPAS functions (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Electric power steering gear (EPAS rack assembly) - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end nuts - Qty: 2
• Steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt - Qty: 1
• Front subframe bolts - Qty: 1 set
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Center the steering wheel and keep it centered using the seat belt wrapped through the wheel spokes. This prevents clockspring damage.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and wait 5 minutes before unplugging steering electronics.
• Plan for a scan tool step at the end: EPAS may store codes and may need a steering angle/center learn.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car and set it down on jack stands.
• Remove both front wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield/undertray

• Remove fasteners with a Torx T30 bit and a 8mm socket as equipped.
• Set the shield aside so you can access the subframe and steering gear.

Step 3: Disconnect the outer tie rod ends

• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the tie rod end to the inner tie rod (helps get you close for the alignment).
• Remove the tie rod end nut using an 18mm socket.
• Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle using a tie-rod end puller (specialty). A puller is a tool that presses the joint apart without hammering.

Step 4: Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft

• From the driver footwell or from the rack input area (depending on access), locate the intermediate shaft pinch joint.
• Mark the shaft and input spline with a paint marker so it goes back in the same orientation.
• Remove the pinch bolt using a 13mm socket.
• Slide the shaft off the rack input using a pry bar gently if needed.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 5: Unplug the EPAS electrical connectors

• Locate the EPAS motor/module connectors on the steering gear.
• Release connector locks with needle-nose pliers (only if needed) and unplug by hand.
• Never pull on the wires.

Step 6: Support and lower the front subframe (as needed for clearance)

• Place a floor jack under the subframe with a block of wood to spread the load.
• Loosen (do not remove at first) the subframe bolts using a 18mm socket and a breaker bar.
• Slowly lower the subframe just enough to slide the steering gear out. Use a bungee cord to support any harnesses that get tight.
• Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs) + 90° for main subframe bolts (use new bolts if required).

Step 7: Remove the steering gear from the subframe

• Remove the steering gear mounting bolts using a 15mm socket (bolt heads may vary by production).
• Slide the steering gear out carefully; use a pry bar only as needed.
• Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs) for steering gear mounting bolts on reassembly.

Step 8: Install the new steering gear

• Position the new steering gear into place by hand.
• Install mounting bolts finger-tight, then tighten with a torque wrench 1/2" drive to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect EPAS electrical connectors by hand until the locks click.

Step 9: Reconnect the intermediate shaft and tie rod ends

• Align your paint marks and slide the intermediate shaft onto the rack input.
• Install a new pinch bolt using a 13mm socket, then Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Install tie rod ends into the knuckles and tighten the nuts using an 18mm socket.
• Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) for tie rod end nuts.

Step 10: Reinstall undertray and wheels

• Reinstall the splash shield using a Torx T30 bit and 8mm socket.
• Reinstall wheels using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the car and Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 11: Reconnect battery and perform EPAS checks

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Use a scan tool with Ford EPAS functions (specialty) to clear codes and run steering angle/center learn if prompted.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the steering assist works and the wheel turns smoothly lock-to-lock.
• Verify no warning lights/messages remain (or clear with a scan tool).
• Get a professional alignment immediately to prevent tire wear and pull.
• Test drive at low speed first, then at road speed, listening for clunks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $650-$1,600 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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