How to replace the Control arms on a 2017 Toyota RAV4
Step-by-step repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to replace the Control arms on a 2017 Toyota RAV4
Step-by-step repair guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Control Arms - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement
On your RAV4 Hybrid, the front lower control arms connect the steering knuckle to the subframe and control wheel movement over bumps and turns. If the bushings are torn or the ball joint is loose, you can get clunks, wandering, uneven tire wear, or steering shake. Assumes front lower control arms.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on level ground and support the vehicle with jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
- Do not rely on the floor jack alone.
- Keep hands clear of suspension tension while removing the control arm.
- If the wheel speed sensor wiring is routed nearby, do not pull on it.
- Hybrid system high-voltage parts are not part of this job, but avoid orange cables and connectors.
- No battery disconnect is normally required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 21mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Penetrating oil
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Rubber mallet
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front lower control arm - Qty: 2
- Front lower control arm bolts and nuts - Qty: 1 set
- Front sway bar link nuts - Qty: 2
- Alignment service - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground.
- Set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts before lifting.
- After control arm replacement, plan for a professional wheel alignment.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift the front of the vehicle
- Use the floor jack to raise the front of your RAV4 at the proper lift point.
- Support it securely with jack stands under the approved support points.
- Remove the front wheel with the 21mm socket.
Step 2: Soak the fasteners
- Use penetrating oil on the control arm bolts, ball joint fastener, and subframe bolts.
- Let it sit a few minutes if the hardware is rusty.
Step 3: Remove the sway bar link or nearby bracket if needed
- If the sway bar link blocks access, use the 14mm or 17mm socket to remove it.
- Keep the link supported so it does not hang on the boot.
Step 4: Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle
- Use the 19mm socket to remove the ball joint nut.
- Use a ball joint separator to release the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- Do not hammer on the ball joint stud.
Step 5: Remove the control arm bolts
- Use the 17mm and 19mm sockets to remove the rear and front control arm mounting bolts.
- Support the control arm with one hand while removing the last bolt.
- Note the position of any washers or brackets before removal.
Step 6: Remove the old control arm
- Lower the arm out of the subframe and wheel well area.
- If it is stuck, use a rubber mallet to gently free it.
Step 7: Install the new control arm
- Position the new control arm in the same orientation as the old one.
- Start all bolts by hand using the 17mm and 19mm sockets.
- Do not fully tighten any bushing bolt yet.
Step 8: Reconnect the ball joint
- Insert the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new nut and tighten it with the 19mm socket.
- Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the sway bar link or bracket
- Use the 14mm or 17mm socket to reinstall any removed link or bracket.
- Torque to manufacturer specification for the exact fastener if provided with the new parts.
Step 10: Tighten the control arm bolts at ride height
- Lower the vehicle until the suspension is at normal ride height, or use a jack under the lower arm to simulate ride height.
- Use the 17mm and 19mm sockets to tighten the control arm bushing bolts.
- Torque to 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs) for the main control arm mounting bolts.
- Tightening at ride height protects the bushings.
Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts with the 21mm socket.
- Lower the vehicle completely.
- Torque the lug nuts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the other side if needed
- Replace control arms in pairs if both sides are worn.
- Repeat the same steps on the opposite side.
✅ After Repair
- Start the vehicle and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked.
- Listen for clunks or rubbing.
- Road test at low speed first.
- Check for loose hardware after the test drive.
- Get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹12,000-₹28,000 for both sides (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹6,000-₹14,000 for both sides (parts only)
You Save: ₹6,000-₹14,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,500-₹4,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















