🔧 CR-V - Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

Assumption: This covers the front lower control arms, one per side, on your CR-V.

The front lower control arms connect the wheel assembly to the subframe and let the suspension move smoothly. If the bushings are torn or the ball joint is loose, you can get clunks, pulling, uneven tire wear, or unstable steering.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the vehicle on jack stands; never work under a car held only by a jack.
• Use wheel chocks on the rear wheels before lifting the front.
• The ball joint and suspension hardware can release suddenly when separated; keep hands clear.
• Replace control arms in pairs to keep steering and alignment consistent.
• An alignment is required after this repair.
• No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 24mm socket
• Ratchet
• Extensions
• Combination wrench set
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Bungee cord or wire hanger

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm, left - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm, right - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm hardware kit - Qty: 2
• Front wheel alignment - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Break loose the front lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• Raise the front and support it securely on jack stands.
• Loosen and retighten suspension fasteners only with the suspension at normal ride height at final torque.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the front wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to remove the front lug nuts.
• Set the wheels aside safely.

Step 2: Free the lower ball joint

• Use penetrating oil on the lower ball joint nut and nearby fasteners.
• Use a 19mm socket to remove the lower ball joint nut.
• Use a ball joint separator (specialty) to separate the ball joint from the knuckle.
• Support the knuckle with a bungee cord or wire hanger so the axle and brake hose are not strained.

Step 3: Remove the rear control arm bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the rear arm bolt and nut.
• If the bolt is stuck, work it back and forth while applying penetrating oil.

Step 4: Remove the front control arm bolt

• Use a 19mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the front arm bolt and nut.
• Mark the washer and bolt position with a paint marker before removal if you want a reference.

Step 5: Remove the control arm

• Lower the control arm out of the subframe and remove it from the vehicle.
• Compare the new arm to the old one to confirm the shape and bushing locations match.

Step 6: Install the new control arm

• Position the new control arm in place by hand.
• Install the front and rear bolts finger-tight first.
• Install the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle and thread the nut on by hand.

Step 7: Tighten the fasteners

• Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten the ball joint nut to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to snug the inner control arm bolts only for now.
• Final torque must be set at ride height.

Step 8: Load the suspension and final torque the bushings

• Raise the lower control arm until the suspension sits near normal ride height.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket to tighten the front and rear control arm bolts to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs).
• This step keeps the rubber bushings from twisting and failing early.

Step 9: Reinstall the wheels

• Use a 21mm socket to reinstall the wheels.
• Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the vehicle and listen for clunks or rubbing while turning the steering wheel.
• Drive slowly at first and check for straight tracking.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$680 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.