🔧 Armada - Battery Replacement

You’ll remove the old 12V battery and install a new one, then reconnect the cables in the correct order. Doing it right prevents electrical damage and avoids common “no-start” or warning light issues.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn the ignition fully OFF and keep the key fob at least 10 feet away from your Armada.
• ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves—battery acid is corrosive.
• ⚠️ Do not let a tool touch both the battery terminal and metal body parts at the same time (that can short the battery).
• ⚠️ Always disconnect negative (–) first and reconnect negative (–) last.
• ⚠️ Battery is heavy—lift with both hands and keep it upright.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm wrench
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet
• Battery terminal brush
• Battery terminal puller (specialty)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Torque wrench (foot-pound)
• Multimeter
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (Group size 27F, 700+ CCA) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🔑 Turn everything off (lights, HVAC, radio) and open the hood.
• 🧠 If you want to preserve radio/clock settings, use a memory saver (specialty) (a device that keeps power through the OBD port). If you don’t have one, it’s OK—settings may reset.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Locate the battery and identify terminals

• Find the battery in the engine bay.
• Look for the negative (–) terminal (usually black) and positive (+) terminal (usually under a red cover).

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (–) terminal

• Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
• Lift the clamp straight up and off the battery post.
• Tuck the negative cable to the side so it cannot spring back and touch the terminal.
• Negative off first prevents accidental sparks.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

• Open the positive terminal cover (if equipped).
• Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut.
• Lift the clamp straight up and off the battery post.

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet to remove the hold-down nuts and bracket (style varies).
• Set the hold-down parts aside in the order they came off.

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Wearing nitrile gloves, lift the battery straight up and out.
• Keep it upright and place it on the ground (not on your painted bumper).

Step 6: Clean the terminals and tray

• Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of both cable clamps until the metal looks bright.
• If a clamp is stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty) to remove it safely without twisting.
• Wipe any debris from the battery tray.

Step 7: Install the new battery and secure it

• Place the new battery into the tray with the terminals in the same orientation as the old one.
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket using the 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" extension for 3/8" ratchet.
• Use a torque wrench (foot-pound) to tighten the hold-down nuts: Torque to 18 N·m (13 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first

• Install anti-corrosion washer on the positive post (if using).
• Push the positive clamp fully down onto the post.
• Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) to tighten the clamp nut: Torque to 5.4 N·m (48 in-lbs).
• Apply a light film of dielectric grease around the outside of the connection (not between the clamp and post).
• Close the positive terminal cover.

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (–) terminal last

• Install anti-corrosion washer on the negative post (if using).
• Push the negative clamp fully down onto the post.
• Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) to tighten the clamp nut: Torque to 5.4 N·m (48 in-lbs).
• Apply battery terminal protectant spray if you have it.

Step 10: Quick charging-system check

• Start the engine.
• Use a multimeter at the battery posts to verify charging voltage is roughly 13.5–14.7V with the engine running.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Confirm the battery is clamped down and cannot move.
• 🔦 Verify no warning lights related to low voltage remain after a short drive.
• 🪟 If auto-up/down windows don’t work: with engine on, fully raise the window and keep holding the switch up for 5 seconds, then fully lower and hold for 5 seconds (repeat per window if needed).
• 🕒 Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $70-$130 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.