🔧 Charger - Battery Replacement

On your Charger, the battery is mounted in the trunk area, so the job is mostly trim access plus safely swapping the battery. The key is disconnecting the cables in the correct order to avoid sparks and protecting the vehicle’s electronics.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and keep the key/fob away from the car (at least 10+ feet).
• ⚠️ Do not let a tool touch both the battery terminal and metal body at once.
• ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) first, reconnect negative (-) last to reduce spark risk.
• ⚠️ Batteries can vent gas; avoid flames/smoking and wear eye protection.
• ⚠️ If your battery has a small vent tube attached, reconnect it (it routes battery fumes safely).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• Trim panel removal tool
• Battery terminal puller (specialty)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Torque wrench (foot-pound)
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (H7 / Group 94R size) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the trunk and keep it open (you’ll be working there).
• Make sure all lights and accessories are OFF.
• Tip: Take a quick photo of cable routing.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the battery in the trunk

• Open the trunk and remove the trunk floor cover by hand.
• On your Charger, the battery is behind the trunk liner on the right side; use a trim panel removal tool to gently pop the liner clips and fold the liner back.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
• Lift the negative cable off the battery post and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back.
• Tip: Wrap the removed cable end with a glove.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 N·m (44 in-lb)

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) battery cable

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut.
• Lift the positive cable off the battery post and position it safely away from the battery.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 N·m (44 in-lb)

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

• Locate the battery hold-down clamp at the base of the battery.
• Use a 13mm socket, 6" socket extension, and 3/8" ratchet to remove the hold-down bolt.
• Set the clamp and bolt aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 21 N·m (15 ft-lb)

Step 5: Disconnect the battery vent tube (if equipped)

• If you see a small tube plugged into the side of the battery, pull it straight out by hand.
• This is the vent tube (a small hose that routes battery gases outside).

Step 6: Remove the old battery

• Lift the battery straight up and out using safe lifting posture (it’s heavy).
• If the terminal clamps are stuck on the posts, use a battery terminal puller (specialty) to remove them without prying.

Step 7: Install the new battery

• Set the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
• Reconnect the vent tube if your old battery had one.
• Reinstall the hold-down clamp using the 13mm socket, extension, and ratchet.
• Torque to 21 N·m (15 ft-lb)

Step 8: Reconnect the cables (positive first, negative last)

• Install the positive (+) clamp first using the 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 5 N·m (44 in-lb)
• Install the negative (-) clamp last using the 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 5 N·m (44 in-lb)
• Apply battery terminal protectant spray after everything is tight.

Step 9: Reinstall trunk trim

• Reposition the trunk liner and press the clips back in by hand.
• Reinstall the trunk floor cover.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly and idles normally.
• Check for warning lights; if any appear, shut off and recheck terminal tightness.
• Reset items that may have lost memory: clock, radio presets, and auto-up/down windows (hold the window switch up for a few seconds after fully closed).
• Tip: Take a 10-minute drive to relearn idle.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $170-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$130 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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