🔧 Journey - Battery Replacement

Your battery provides the power to start your Journey and run electronics. Replacing it is mostly about safe disconnect/reconnect order and getting access to the battery (on this Journey it’s typically tucked under/next to the air intake box).

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

Assumption: Battery is in the engine bay under/near the air intake box.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF, remove key, and keep it away from the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves—battery acid is corrosive.
• ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) terminal first and reconnect it last to prevent accidental short circuits.
• ⚠️ Do not let your wrench touch the body/engine while on the positive terminal.
• ⚠️ Lift with care—car batteries are heavy.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip remover
• Torque wrench (in-lb)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Battery terminal brush
• Small bungee cord

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (correct fitment for your Journey) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion spray - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal felt washers (red/green) - Qty: 1 set
• Memory saver (OBD-II) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine bay cool if it was just driven.
• If you’re using a memory saver (a device that keeps radio/settings powered during battery swap), connect it to the OBD-II port under the dash before disconnecting the battery.
• Take a quick photo of the battery area so reassembly is easier.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Gain access to the battery

• Remove any plastic engine cover/intake snorkel if present using a trim clip remover and/or flathead screwdriver.
• Loosen the air intake hose clamp (if it blocks access) using a flathead screwdriver.
• Unclip and lift out the air filter box top and/or air box assembly as needed using a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension.
• Tip: Use a bungee cord to hold parts aside.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal

• Locate the negative (-) cable (usually black and marked “-”).
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the terminal clamp nut.
• Wiggle the clamp off the battery post (the round battery “stud”). If it’s stuck, gently twist while pulling—don’t pry hard.
• Move the negative cable aside and secure it with a small bungee cord so it can’t spring back.
• Torque on install: Torque to 5 N·m (45 in-lb)

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

• Locate the positive (+) cable (usually red and marked “+”).
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the terminal clamp nut and remove the clamp.
• Cover/position the positive cable so it cannot touch metal.
• Torque on install: Torque to 5 N·m (45 in-lb)

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

• Find the battery hold-down at the base of the battery.
• Use a 13mm socket, ratchet, and extension to remove the hold-down bolt.
• Lift out the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
• Torque on install: Torque to 17 N·m (13 ft-lb)

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Lift the battery straight up and out. Keep it upright.
• Place it on the ground away from the vehicle.

Step 6: Clean the battery terminals and tray

• Use a battery terminal brush to clean the inside of the cable clamps until shiny metal is visible.
• If there is corrosion in the tray area, wipe it clean (avoid touching your face; wash hands after).
• Install battery terminal felt washers if you’re using them.

Step 7: Install the new battery

• Lower the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket and tighten using a 13mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 17 N·m (13 ft-lb)

Step 8: Reconnect terminals (positive first, negative last)

• Install the positive (+) cable clamp first and tighten using a 10mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 5 N·m (45 in-lb)
• Install the negative (-) cable clamp last and tighten using a 10mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to 5 N·m (45 in-lb)
• Spray a light coat of battery terminal anti-corrosion spray on both terminals.

Step 9: Reinstall the air intake/air box

• Reinstall the air box/ducting you removed using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Tighten any hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Double-check that all clips are fully seated and nothing is rubbing the battery cables.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks normally.
• Check the dash for warning lights that weren’t there before.
• Set the clock and radio presets if they reset.
• Verify the battery is secure (it should not move by hand).
• Recycle the old battery—most parts stores accept it (often with a core refund).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$160 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.