🔧 Altima - Battery Replacement

Your Altima’s 12V battery provides power to start the engine and run electronics. Replacing it is straightforward, but you must disconnect/connect the terminals in the correct order to avoid short circuits and computer glitches.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep metal tools away from both battery posts at the same time (can short and spark).
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; battery acid is corrosive.
• ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and keep the key fob at least 10 ft away from the car.
• ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) first, reconnect negative (-) last.
• ⚠️ Batteries are heavy—lift with your legs, not your back.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" socket extension (3/8" drive)
• 10mm combination wrench
• Battery terminal puller (specialty)
• Battery post/terminal cleaning brush
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or small Nm range)
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V battery (Group 35, correct CCA for Altima) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
• Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and make sure all lights/accessories are OFF.
• If you want to keep radio presets/settings, use a memory saver (a small device that powers the car through the OBD port while the battery is out).
• Confirm the new battery matches the old one’s size and terminal layout before removing anything.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the battery

• Open the hood and locate the battery in the engine bay.
• If there’s a plastic battery cover, lift it off by hand.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) terminal

• Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet to loosen the negative terminal nut.
• Twist and lift the negative cable off the battery post and move it aside so it cannot spring back.
• Torque on install: 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs)

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the positive terminal nut.
• Lift the positive cable off and position it safely away from the battery.
• Tip: Cover with a rag to prevent contact.
• Torque on install: 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs)

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

• Use a 10mm socket, ratchet, and 6" extension to remove the hold-down nuts/bolt(s).
• Lift off the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
• Torque on install: 6.9 Nm (61 in-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Pull the battery straight up and out using the built-in handle (if equipped).
• Set it on the ground upright (do not tip it).

Step 6: Clean the terminals and tray

• Use a battery post/terminal cleaning brush to clean the inside of both cable terminals until bright metal shows.
• If a terminal is stuck, use a battery terminal puller (specialty) (a tool that presses the clamp off without prying).
• Wipe the battery tray clean with a dry rag.

Step 7: Install the new battery

• Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (posts positioned the same).
• Install the hold-down bracket and tighten using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 6.9 Nm (61 in-lbs)

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first

• Slide the positive terminal fully down onto the post.
• Tighten with a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs)
• Install anti-corrosion pads if you’re using them, then apply terminal protectant spray.

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) terminal last

• Slide the negative terminal fully down onto the post.
• Tighten with a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs)

Step 10: Final check

• Try to rotate each terminal by hand; it should not twist on the post.
• Make sure the battery cannot move in the tray.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the dash battery/charging warning light is OFF.
• Reset the clock and radio presets if needed.
• If the auto-up/down windows don’t work: close each window fully, then hold the switch in the “up” position for 3 seconds.
• Recheck terminal tightness after 2-3 days of driving.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$120 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.