How to Replace the Battery on a 2013-2023 Mazda CX-5 (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips
How to Replace the Battery on a 2013-2023 Mazda CX-5 (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Battery - Replacement
On your CX-5, the 12V battery is under the hood and can be swapped with basic hand tools. The job is straightforward, but you need to disconnect it in the correct order to avoid sparks and electrical faults.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1 hour
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Turn the ignition fully off and remove the key/fob from the vehicle.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. A car battery can leak acid and is very heavy.
- Disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive terminal. Reconnect in the reverse order.
- Do not let a wrench touch both terminals or the body of the vehicle at the same time.
- Keep sparks, flames, and smoking materials away from the battery area.
- No battery disconnect coding or special registration is normally required on this CX-5.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4-inch ratchet
- 6-inch extension
- Battery terminal puller (specialty)
- Baking soda and water mix
- Wire brush
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Memory saver (optional)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V battery (Group 35) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Make sure the ignition is off and the hood is fully open.
- If you want to keep radio presets and some settings, connect a memory saver before disconnecting the battery.
- Wait a few minutes after shutdown so modules fully power down.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate and inspect the battery
- Open the hood and find the battery on the left side of the engine bay.
- Check for corrosion, loose clamps, or a cracked case before removal.
- Tip: Take a quick photo first.
Step 2: Disconnect the negative cable
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to loosen the negative terminal clamp.
- Lift the cable off the battery post and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back.
- Torque on reinstall: 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 3: Disconnect the positive cable
- Use the 10mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to loosen the positive terminal clamp.
- Remove the cable and keep it clear of the battery posts.
- Torque on reinstall: 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down
- Use the 10mm socket with the 6-inch extension to remove the battery hold-down bracket.
- Lift the bracket out and keep the hardware together.
- Torque on reinstall: 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
Step 5: Lift out the old battery
- Use both hands to lift the battery straight up and out of the tray.
- It is heavy, so keep your back straight and lift carefully.
- Tip: A battery handle makes this easier.
Step 6: Clean the tray and terminals
- Use a wire brush and baking soda and water mix to clean corrosion from the tray and cable ends.
- Dry everything fully before installing the new battery.
- Make sure the cables are not frayed or damaged.
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Place the new 12V battery (Group 35) into the tray with the terminals in the same orientation as the old one.
- Reinstall the hold-down bracket and tighten it with the 10mm socket.
- Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs)
Step 8: Reconnect the positive cable
- Install the positive cable first using the 10mm socket.
- Make sure the clamp sits fully on the battery post.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 9: Reconnect the negative cable
- Install the negative cable last using the 10mm socket.
- Make sure the connection is tight and the cable cannot move by hand.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)
Step 10: Confirm operation
- Start the engine and check for normal dash lights and cranking.
- Set your clock and restore any saved radio or memory settings.
- Check that the battery stays secure and the terminals do not move.
✅ After Repair
- Drive the vehicle briefly and confirm no warning lights stay on.
- Recheck terminal tightness after the first drive.
- If the windows or sunroof act odd, recalibrate them using the normal auto-up/down procedure.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$240 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$210 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1 hour.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Vehicle Battery replace for these Mazda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2022 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2021 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2020 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2019 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2018 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2017 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2016 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2016 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2015 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2015 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2014 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2014 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2013 Mazda CX-5 | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |










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