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2011 Ford Explorer
1991 - 2010 Ford Explorer
V6 4.0L
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
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  • Ford Explorer
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  • 2011
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  • How to Replace the Battery on a 1991-2019 Ford Explorer (12V) + BMS Reset Steps (Engine: V6 3.5L)
2011 - 2017 Ford Explorer Battery Replacement | Easy DIY

2011 - 2017 Ford Explorer Battery Replacement | Easy DIY

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace the Battery on a 1991-2019 Ford Explorer (12V) + BMS Reset Steps (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step battery swap with tools, parts, terminal torque specs, safety tips, and BMS reset procedure

How to Replace the Battery on a 1991-2019 Ford Explorer (12V) + BMS Reset Steps (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step battery swap with tools, parts, terminal torque specs, safety tips, and BMS reset procedure for 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

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Orion

đź”§ Explorer - Battery Replacement

Replacing your Explorer’s 12V battery is mainly about safe disconnection/reconnection and making sure the new battery is clamped down securely. After installation, you’ll also want to reset the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) so charging works correctly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5–1.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Wear eye protection and gloves; battery acid is corrosive.
  • Key off, keep the key away from the vehicle, and wait 2–3 minutes before disconnecting (modules go to sleep).
  • Disconnect negative (-) first and reconnect negative (-) last to reduce short-circuit risk.
  • Do not let a tool touch the battery positive (+) and any metal body part at the same time.
  • If you use a memory saver, follow its instructions carefully. A memory saver is a small device that keeps vehicle settings powered while the battery is out.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 1/4" or 3/8" ratchet
  • 6" socket extension
  • Torque wrench (in-lb or Nm)
  • Battery terminal brush
  • Trim clip tool
  • Shop rags
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • OBD-II memory saver (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • 12V battery (Group 65, BCI) - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal anti-corrosion spray - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal felt washers - Qty: 2

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Pop the hood and make sure you have your radio presets or any saved settings noted (some settings may reset).
  • If using an OBD-II memory saver (specialty), connect it now per the device instructions before disconnecting the battery.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the battery

  • Open the hood and locate the battery in the engine compartment.
  • If a cover or fresh-air duct is in the way, remove fasteners using a trim clip tool and/or a 10mm socket.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) cable

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative (-) terminal clamp.
  • Lift the clamp off the battery post and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) cable

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the positive (+) terminal clamp.
  • Lift the clamp off the battery post and position it so it cannot touch metal.

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down

  • Remove the battery hold-down bolt using a 13mm socket, ratchet, and 6" extension.
  • Set the hold-down and bolt aside where you won’t lose them.

Step 5: Remove the old battery

  • Lift the battery straight up and out. Batteries are heavy, so use safe lifting posture.
  • Place it on the ground upright (never on its side).

Step 6: Clean and prep the terminals

  • Use a battery terminal brush to clean any corrosion from the inside of both cable clamps.
  • Wipe with shop rags.
  • Install battery terminal felt washers (one on each battery post) if you’re using them.

Step 7: Install the new battery and secure it

  • Set the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
  • Reinstall the hold-down and tighten using a 13mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) cable

  • Install the positive (+) clamp onto the battery post.
  • Tighten using a 10mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (-) cable

  • Install the negative (-) clamp onto the battery post.
  • Tighten using a 10mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)

Step 10: Protect terminals and reinstall any covers

  • Apply battery terminal anti-corrosion spray to both terminals.
  • Reinstall any battery cover/ducting using the trim clip tool and/or 10mm socket.

âś… After Repair

  • Start your Explorer and confirm normal cranking and no flickering lights.
  • Reset the Battery Monitoring System (BMS): turn ignition ON (engine OFF), flash high beams 5 times, then press and release the brake pedal 3 times within 10 seconds. The battery light should flash to confirm reset.
  • Set the clock and restore any saved settings if needed.
  • Check that the battery is secure (no movement) and that both terminals are tight.
  • Recheck clamp tightness after 1–2 days.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160–$260 (parts only)

You Save: $90–$190 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5–1.0 hours.


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