🔧 Altima - Battery Replacement

Replacing the 12V battery restores reliable starting power and prevents random electrical issues. On your Altima, the battery sits in the engine bay and is held down by a simple bracket.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Turn the ignition OFF, remove the key, and keep it away from the car.
• ⚠️ Never let a tool touch the battery positive (+) and metal body parts at the same time (that’s a short).
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative (–) cable first and reconnect it last.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; batteries can vent corrosive acid.
• ⚠️ If you use a memory saver (a small device that keeps radio/settings alive), follow its instructions carefully.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• 10mm combination wrench
• Inch-pound torque wrench (specialty)
• Battery terminal cleaning brush
• Digital multimeter
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 12V car battery (Group Size 35) - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal anti-corrosion spray - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal felt washers - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to neutral, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and let the engine bay cool if it’s hot.
• Know that disconnecting the battery may reset the clock and radio presets.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Locate the battery and inspect the connections

• Find the battery in the engine bay.
• Check which terminal is negative (–) and which is positive (+). The negative usually has a black cable.

Step 2: Disconnect the negative (–) terminal first

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the negative terminal clamp nut.
• Twist and lift the clamp off the battery post (do not pry hard on the battery case).
• Tuck the negative cable to the side so it cannot spring back onto the post.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb).

Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) terminal

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the positive terminal clamp nut.
• Lift the clamp off and position it so it cannot touch metal parts.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb).

Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down bracket

• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the hold-down fasteners.
• Lift off the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lb).

Step 5: Remove the old battery

• Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
• Lift the battery straight up and out. Lift with legs, not back.
• Check the battery tray for corrosion or wetness.

Step 6: Clean the terminals and prepare the new battery

• Use a battery terminal cleaning brush to clean the inside of both cable clamps until the metal looks bright.
• Install battery terminal felt washers on the battery posts (red for +, black/green for – if included).
• Lightly apply battery terminal anti-corrosion spray after final tightening (not before).

Step 7: Install the new battery and secure it

• Set the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
• Reinstall the hold-down bracket using a 10mm socket.
• Snug it evenly, then use an inch-pound torque wrench (specialty) (a torque wrench tightens to an exact value) to finish: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lb).

Step 8: Reconnect the positive (+) terminal first

• Place the positive clamp fully down on the battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten, then use the inch-pound torque wrench (specialty): Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb).

Step 9: Reconnect the negative (–) terminal last

• Place the negative clamp fully down on the battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten, then torque with the inch-pound torque wrench (specialty): Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb).
• Spray both terminals with battery terminal anti-corrosion spray.

Step 10: Quick charging-system check

• Start the engine.
• Use a digital multimeter (measures voltage) across the battery posts.
• With the engine idling, you should typically see about 13.5V to 14.7V.

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✅ After Repair

• Reset the clock and radio presets if needed.
• Make sure the battery is firmly clamped (it should not move by hand).
• If idle is rough after reconnecting the battery, let the engine idle with all accessories OFF for 5-10 minutes and then drive normally for a short trip so the ECU can re-learn.
• Recheck terminal tightness after 2-3 days of driving (use the 10mm socket lightly if needed).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $60-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.