🔧 Charger - Alternator Replacement

The alternator charges the battery and powers your Charger’s electrical system while the engine runs. Replacement involves disconnecting the battery, removing the serpentine belt, swapping the alternator, then reinstalling everything and verifying charging voltage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the alternator wiring (prevents shorting the main power cable).
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; you’ll be working near hot front-engine components.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers and tools clear of the belt path; the tensioner is spring-loaded.
• ⚠️ Support the hood securely and keep loose clothing away from pulleys.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• E14 external Torx socket
• 8mm nut driver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Multimeter
• Small flathead screwdriver

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Alternator (correct amperage for your Charger) - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 Optional but smart if cracked
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 Small packet is enough

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🔑 Remove the key/fob from the vehicle and keep it away from the car.
• 📸 Take a quick photo of the belt routing diagram (usually on the radiator support). If it’s missing, sketch the routing before removing the belt.
• 🔋 Plan to disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
• Lift the negative cable off and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back onto the terminal.

Step 2: Remove the intake ducting for access

• Use an 8mm nut driver to loosen the hose clamps on the intake tube.
• Disconnect any small vacuum/PCV tubes by hand (gently twist first).
• Remove the intake tube/air duct pieces and set them aside.

Step 3: Relieve serpentine belt tension

• Install a 15mm socket on the belt tensioner bolt and use a 3/8" drive ratchet (or a serpentine belt tool (specialty)) to rotate the tensioner and relieve belt tension.
• Slide the belt off the alternator pulley first, then slowly release the tensioner back to rest.
• Tip: Move slowly; the tensioner snaps back hard.

Step 4: Disconnect alternator electrical connections

• Unplug the alternator field connector by pressing the lock tab (use a small flathead screwdriver only if needed).
• Remove the protective cap from the alternator B+ terminal.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the B+ terminal nut and lift the cable off.
• Reinstall the nut a few turns onto the stud so it doesn’t get lost.

Step 5: Remove the alternator mounting bolts

• Look at the bolt heads and choose the correct socket:
  • Use a 15mm socket if the heads are standard hex.
  • Use an E14 external Torx socket if the heads are external Torx. External Torx looks like a star-shaped bolt head.
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 6" extension to remove the alternator mounting bolts.
• Lift the alternator out of the bracket.

Step 6: Install the new alternator

• Set the new alternator into place by hand and start all mounting bolts by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet to snug the bolts evenly.
• Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench to finish tightening the alternator mounting bolts: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reconnect alternator wiring

• Install the B+ cable onto the stud and start the nut by hand.
• Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs).
• Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal (not the metal pins), then plug in the field connector until it clicks.
• Reinstall the protective cap over the B+ terminal.

Step 8: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt using your photo/diagram, leaving the alternator pulley for last.
• Use a 15mm socket and ratchet (or serpentine belt tool (specialty)) to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt onto the alternator pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Visually confirm the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.

Step 9: Reinstall the intake ducting

• Reinstall the intake tube/duct pieces.
• Use an 8mm nut driver to tighten the hose clamps snugly.
• Reconnect any small hoses you removed.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery and verify charging

• Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Use a multimeter at the battery terminals:
  • Engine off should be about 12.4–12.7V on a healthy battery.
  • Engine idling should typically be around 13.5–14.7V if charging normally.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 Listen for belt squeal and watch the belt for smooth tracking.
• 🧪 Recheck battery voltage after a short 10-minute drive.
• 🛑 If the battery light stays on, recheck the alternator connector lock and B+ nut tightness, then scan for codes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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