🔧 Alternator - Replacement

The alternator charges the battery and powers the electrical system while the engine runs. On your Stinger, replacement is a tight but straightforward job that starts with removing the drive belt and electrical connectors, then unbolting the alternator from its bracket.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. The alternator has constant battery power.
• Let the engine cool fully. The belt area and exhaust parts can be hot.
• Keep fingers clear of the belt path and pulley areas.
• Use jack stands if you need under-vehicle access. Never rely on a jack alone.
• If your vehicle has stored charging-system faults, clear codes after repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Ratchet
• Long ratchet or breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Flat-head trim tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Jack stands
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Alternator - Qty: 1
• Alternator drive belt - Qty: 1
• Alternator mounting bolts - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Turn the ignition off and remove the key or fob from the cabin.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm socket.
• Take a photo of the belt routing first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect power

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back and touch the post.
• Tighten to 5-7 Nm (44-62 in-lbs) when reinstalling.

Step 2: Remove the engine cover and intake pieces

• Use a flat-head trim tool to remove the engine cover clips, if equipped.
• Remove any intake ducting or covers blocking access to the alternator using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Keep all clips and fasteners organized.

Step 3: Release the serpentine belt

• Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) or long breaker bar on the belt tensioner.
• Rotate the tensioner to unload the belt, then slip the belt off the alternator pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner.
• Route the belt over your hand like a map.

Step 4: Disconnect the alternator wiring

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery cable nut from the alternator B+ terminal.
• Unplug the electrical connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight off.
• Move the wiring aside so it cannot snag during removal.

Step 5: Remove the alternator

• Use a 14mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the alternator mounting bolts.
• Support the alternator with one hand as the last bolt comes out.
• Work the alternator out of the bracket and remove it from the engine bay.

Step 6: Install the new alternator

• Position the new alternator in the bracket.
• Install the mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the alternator bolts with a torque wrench to factory specification. If your fastener set differs, use the vehicle service data for the exact value.
• Reconnect the electrical plug and install the B+ cable nut.
• Tighten the B+ terminal nut to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall the belt

• Use the serpentine belt tool (specialty) or breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Route the belt back over the alternator pulley and all other pulleys.
• Make sure the belt sits fully in every groove before releasing the tensioner.
• Check the belt path against the routing diagram or your photo.

Step 8: Reassemble the intake and covers

• Reinstall any intake ducting, covers, or engine cover pieces removed earlier.
• Use the 10mm socket and flat-head trim tool as needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and watch the belt for smooth tracking.
• Check for battery warning lights on the dash.
• Measure charging voltage at the battery if you have a multimeter. You should usually see about 13.5-14.8 volts with the engine running.
• Listen for belt squeal, clicking, or bearing noise.
• Clear any stored charging-system fault codes if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $260-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $490-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.